Visit to Rome

TERMINI

Tourist traps abound; avoid the torturous ‚8 quick lunch advertised in windows.

El Africa, V. Gaeta 26-28 ( 06 494 10 77), near P. Independenza. Excellent EritreanEthiopian food. The meat-filled sambusas (‚2.50) are a flavorful starter; both the zighini beghi (roasted lamb in a spicy sauce; ‚8) and the misto vegetariano (mixed veggies; ‚6) make fantastic entrees. Cover ‚1. Open M-Sa 8pm-midnight. MCV.

Al 39, V. Palaestra 39a-41a ( 06 444 12 13). Between the intersection of V. S Martino d. Battaglia and V. Gaeta. The locals’ lunch joint. Ingredients are fresh, the waiters friendly, and the food a good value (bruschetta al pomodoro, ‚1.30). Carnivores should try the specialty, bisteca Al 39 (‚10). Vegetarians won’t go hungry with the superb rigatoni vignaroli (‚5). The pizza oven is not wood-fired, but the pizzas (‚4-7) are served bubbling. Open M-Sa noon-3:30pm and 7pm-midnight. AmExMCV. 0

Trattoria da Bruno, V. Varese 29 (06 49 04 03). From V. Marsala, next to the train station, walk 3 blocks down V. Milazzo and turn right onto V. Varese. Start with the tortellini con panna e funghi (with cream and mushrooms; ‚6.50). For dessert: The best crepes in town. Open daily noon-3:30pm and 7-10:15pm. Closed Aug. AmExMCV.

SAN LORENZO

Rome’s funky university district, San Lorenzo, offers many good, cheap eateries. From Termini, walk south on V. Pretoriano to P. Tiburtino, or take bus #492. Women may find the walk a little uncomfortable at night.

Pulcino Ballerino, V.d. Equi 66-68 (06 494 12 55). Take a right off V. Tiburtina. Dishes include conchiglione al Moby Dick” (shells with tuna, cream, and greens). Open M-Sa l-3:30pm and 8pm-midnight. Closed mid-Aug. AmExMCV.

Bi II Tunnel, V. Arezzo 11 (06 44 23 68 08). From M: B-Bologna, walk down V.d. Provin- cie, take the 4th right onto V. Padova, and the 2nd left onto V. Arezzo. A bit of a trek, but the locals love it. All pasta dishes (‚4-10) are made fresh and the bisteca alia Fiorentina is unrivalled in Rome (priced by weight, around ‚15 per person). Open Tu-Su noon-3pm and 7pm-midnight. Closed Aug. MCV. G

Arancia Blu, V.d. Latini 65 (06 445 41 05), off V. Tiburtina. Tonnarelli con pecorino romano e tartufo (pasta with sheep cheese and truffles; ‚6.20) or fried ravioli stuffed with eggplant and smoked caciocavallo with pesto sauce (‚8.50) make excellent meals. Extensive wine list. Open daily 8:30pm-midnight.

TESTACCIO

This working-class southern neighborhood is the center of Roman nightlife, and eateries here offer food made of just about every animal part imaginable.

El La Cestia, V. di Piramide Cestia 69. M: B-Piramide. Walk across P. di Porta San Paolo to V. di Piramide Cestia; the restaurant is on the right. Pasta ‚4.20-7.20. Secondi ‚6.20- 11. Open Tu-Su 12:30-3pm and 7:30-1 lpm. DMCV.

Trattoria da Bucatino, V. Luca della Robbia 84-86 (06 574 68 86). Take V. Luigi Van- vitelli off V. Marmorata, then the 1st left. The animal entrails you know and love, and plenty of gut-less dishes as well. Heaping mounds of tripe alia romana (‚7). Pizza ‚4- 7. Cover ‚1.50. Open Tu-Su 12:30-3:30pm and 6:30-11:30pm. Closed Aug. MCV.

Volpetti Piu, V. Alessandro Volta ( 06 574 43 06). Take a left onto V.A. Volta off of V. Marmorata. Join the locals at this authentic gastronomica for a quick lunch at one of their self-service tables. Fresh salads, pizza, and daily specials from ‚4. Open M-Sa lOam-lOpm. O

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