Travel to Seville

ACCOMMODATIONS

Rooms vanish and prices soar during Semana Santa and the Feria de Abril; reserve ahead. The narrow streets east of the cathedral around Calle Santa Maria la Blanca are full of cheap, centrally located hostels. Hostels by the Plaza de Armas bus station, mostly on C. Gravina, are convenient for visits to El Centro and the lively C. Betis on the west bank of the river.

THE BARGAIN OF SEVILLE

Espiau, C. Perez Galdos 1A (954 21 06 82), between PI. Alfalfa and PI. Encarnacion. Friendly Spanish and British couple keep the most beautiful hostal in town. Rooms with high ceilings and full-length tiled mirrors surround huge, sunny living room. Singles ‚22; doubles ‚42, with bath ‚48; triples ‚54. Discounts for longer stays.

Pension Vergara, C. Ximenez de Enciso 11, 2nd fl. (954 21 56 68), at C. Meson del Moro. Beautiful rooms of varying size with lace bedspreads, antique-style furniture, and a sitting room with book swap. Singles, doubles, triples, and quads available; all have fans. Towels provided on request. ‚18 per person.

Hostal Lis, C. Escarpin 10 (954 21 30 88), in an alley near PI. Encarnacion. Cozy, tiled rooms in a traditional Sevilian house. Owner is in the process of adding AC to all rooms and a rooftop terrace. Free Internet access. Laundry service. Singles with shower ‚21; doubles with bath ‚42; triples with bath ‚63. MCV.

Hostal Macarena, C. San Luis 91 (954 37 01 41). Curtains, tiles, wooden furniture, and quilted bedspreads make Macarena’s rooms homey and welcoming. All rooms with AC. Singles ‚20; doubles ‚30, with bath ‚40; triples ‚51. MCV.

Hostal Buen Dormir, C. Farnesio 8 (954 21 06 82). Quilted bedspreads, tiled walls, and sunny rooms, all with AC, make Hostal Good Sleep one of the best deals in town. Rooftop terrace. Laundry ‚6. Singles ‚18; doubles ‚30, with shower ‚35, with bath ‚40; triples with shower ‚50, with bath ‚55.

Hostal Arizona, C. Pedro del Toro 14 (954 21 60 42), off C. Gravina. Some rooms have balconies. Mar.-Oct. singles ‚20; doubles ‚30, with bath ‚36. Nov.-Apr. ‚153036. Prices higher for Semana Santa and Feria.

Hotel YH Giralda, C. Abades 30 (954 22 83 24). This 2-star hotel features spacious, sparkling, mauve-and-white painted rooms. Simplistic, modern, but trendy style with iron-post beds and marble-floored patio. All rooms with private bath, AC, and Internet jacks. July 15-Oct. and Dec. doubles ‚80; Nov. and Jan.-July 14 ‚65. AmExMCV. O

Hostal Dulces-Sueiios, C. Puerta de la Came 21 (954 41 93 93). Comfortable rooms, some with AC. Prices with Let’s Go: Singles ‚20; doubles ‚40, with bath ‚50; one triple with bath ‚65.

Hostal Atenas, C. Caballerizas 1 (954 21 80 47; fax 22 76 90), near PI. Pilatos. Slightly pricier than other options, but with good reason-all sunny, orange-painted rooms come with private baths and AC. Singles ‚29; doubles ‚55; triples ‚70. Prices higher during Semana Santa and Feria. MCV.

Seville is home to gorgeous artesania and hundreds of people anxious to sell it. Avoid the overpriced tourist shops by the cathedral, and head to the specialty stores for authentic merchandise.

Abanicos de Sevilla, PI. San Francisco 7. Largest selection of hand-painted fans in town. Open June-Aug. M-F 9:30am-l:30pm and 5-8:30pm, Sa 9:30am-2pm; Sept.-May M-Sa 9:30am-l:30pm and 5-8:30pm. MCV.

Martian Ceramica Sevillana, las Sierpes 74. Colorful hand-painted ceramics, all made in Seville. Tiny trays and vases start at ‚3; larger ones cost ‚20-30. Open M-Sa 10am-2pm and 5-8:30pm. MCV.

Artesania Textil, C. las Sierpes 70. Authentic, hand-sewn silk shawls. Prices start at ‚56. Open June-Aug. M-F 10am-l:30pm and 5:15-8:15pm, Sa 10am-l:30pm; Sept.-May M-Sa 10am-l:30pm and 5:15-8:15pm. MCV.

Diza, C. Tetuan 5. Fans, some dating back to the 19th-century, from ‚4. June-Aug. M-F 9:30am-1:30pm and 5-8:30pm, Sa 9:30am-2pm; Sept.-May M-Sa 9:30am-1:30pm and 5-8:30pm. MCV.

Trajes Sevillanos, Modas Munoz, C. Cerrajeria 5. Colorful, high-quality flamenco costumes (from ‚120) and accessories (fans, flowers). Open M-F 10am-1:30pm and 5-8:30pm, Sa 10am-1:30pm. MCV.

Hostal Bienvenido, C. Archeros 14 (954 41 36 55), off C. Santa Maria la Blanca. Simple, but cheap rooms. 5 rooftop rooms surround a social patio; downstairs ones overlook an inner atrium. Very international backpacker crowd. Singles ‚20; doubles ‚30-37 depending on room; triples and quads ‚15-16 per person.

Hostal La Gloria, C. San Eloy 58, 2nd fl. (954 22 26 73), at the end of a lively shopping street. Spotless rooms. One of the best deals in the center. Singles ‚18; doubles ‚30, with bath ‚36; limited triples available ‚45. Semana Santa and Feria prices substantially higher.

Hostal Rio Sol, C. Marquez de Parada 25 (954 22 90 38), 1 block from PI. de Armas bus station. Circular staircase leads to cheap and clean rooms. Singles ‚15, with bath ‚21; doubles with bath, TV, and AC ‚43. MCV.

Sevilla Youth Hostel (HI), C. Isaac Peral 2 (954 6131 50; reservas@inturjoven.junta-andalucia.es). Take bus #34 across from the tourist office near the cathedral; the 5th stop is behind the hostel. Isolated and difficult to find. AC. Many private baths. Breakfast included. Mar.-Oct. dorms ‚17, under-26 ‚13; Nov.-Feb. ‚15, under-26 ‚11.

Hostal-Residencia Cordoba, C. Farnesio 12 (954 22 74 98). Immaculate and spacious air-conditioned rooms are worth the extra euros. AC functions from 4pm-4am, 3pm-5am when the summer meltdown strikes. Curfew 3am. Singles ‚27, with bath ‚33; doubles ‚4150. Semana Santa and Feria ‚36485665.

Hostal Goya, C. Mateos Gago 31 (954 21 11 70; fax 56 29 88). Almost hotel-like. Outside-facing rooms are worth the splurge; inner rooms are dimmer. Spacious, sparkling-clean rooms have AC and private baths. June-Mar. singles ‚40; doubles ‚65; triples ‚91; quads ‚107. Apr.-May and Semana Santa ‚4575105123. MCV.

Hostal Sierpes, C. Corral del Rey 22 (954 22 49 48; fax 21 21 07). Lace-canopied lobby and beautiful common spaces belie boring but clean rooms. All rooms with baths, many with AC. Parking ‚12. Mar.-June and Aug.-Dee. singles ‚40; doubles ‚59; triples ‚77; quads ‚96. Holidays and festivals ‚6585111141. Jan.-Feb. and July ‚31435567.

Hostal-Residencia Monreal, C. Rodrigo Caro 8 (s954 21 41 66). Rooms with bath are spacious and beautiful; those without are basic. Ask for one overlooking the plaza. The downstairs cafe caters to backpackers. Breakfast ‚2.50-4. Singles ‚20; doubles ‚40, with bath ‚60. MCV.

Camping Sevilla, Ctra. Madrid-Cadiz km 534 (954 51 43 79), near the airport. From Pr. San Sebastian, take bus #70 (stops 800m away at Parque Alcosa). Hot showers, supermarket, and pool. ‚3 per person, ‚3 per car, ‚2.50 per tent.

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