DE PUP, JODENBUURT, AND THE PLANTAGE
Hi Bicycle Hotel, Van Ostadestr. 123 (679 34 52; www.bicyclehotel.com). Clean digs, spotless bathrooms, and a leafy garden. Bicycle-friendly hotel with a bike garage, trip recommendations, and bike decor. Breakfast included. Free Internet. Double ‚68-70, with bath ‚99; triples ‚90120; quads with bath ‚120. Cash only.
Hotel Pension Kitty, Plantage Middenlaan 40 (622 68 19). Look out for the small sign. Gentle 80-year-old proprietress provides for those seeking a peaceful respite. Grandmotherly warmth and wonderful tranquility abound. No children. Singles ‚50; doubles ‚60-70; triples ‚75. Cash only.
Hotel De Stadhouder, Stadhouderskade 76 (671 84 28). Well-kept rooms, some with patios or canal views. Breakfast and sheets included. Singles ‚35-65; doubles ‚40-85; triples ‚75-100; quads ‚11095; quints ‚12585. AmExMCV with 5% surcharge. Hotel Fantasia, Nieuwe Keizersgr. 16 (623 82 59; www.fantasia-hotel.com). Clean, friendly, family-owned establishment in an 18th-century house on a quiet canal. Breakfast included. Closed Dec. 14-27 and Jan. 6-Mar. 1. Singles ‚55-63; doubles ‚80-90; triples ‚115; quads ‚135. AmExMCV with 3% surcharge.
Hotel Adolesce, Nieuwe Keizersgrt. 26 ( 626 39 59; firstname.lastname@example.org). Pristine hotel located in an old canal house steps away from the Magere Brug (skinny bridge”). Free coffeetea all day. No drugs. Reception 8:30am-lam; pay on arrival. Singles ‚60-‚65; doubles ‚80-85; triples ‚115. MCV.
Many cheap restaurants cluster around Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein, and the Spui. Cafes, especially in the Jordaan, serve inexpensive sandwiches (‚1.50-4) and good meat-and-potatoes fare (‚5.50-9). Bakeries line Utrechtsestraat, south of Prin-sengr. Fruit, cheese, flowers, and even live chickens fill the markets on Albert Cuyp-straat, behind the Heineken brewery. (Open M-Sa 9am-6pm.)
NIEUWE ZIJD AND OUDE ZIJD
H In de Waag, Nieuwmarkt 4 ( 452 77 72; www.indewaag.nl) In the late 1400s, this castle served as the eastern entrance to the city. Today, sandwiches and salads (‚4-8.50) are served on the patio for lunch. At night, the restaurant lights 250 candles and patrons pack the medieval behemoth for richly flavored Italian, French, and Norwegian specialties. Entrees ‚17-22. Open M-Th and Su lOam-midnight, F-Sa lOam-lam; often open until 3am on busy evenings.
Pannenkoekenhuis Upstairs, Grimburgwal 2 (626 56 03). This tiny nook boasts the city’s best pancakes (‚5-9). Open M-F noon-7pm, Sa noon-6pm, Su noon-5pm.
Ristorante Caprese, Spuistr. 259-261 (620 00 59). Excellent Italian food accompanied by smooth jazz. Open daily 5-10:45pm. No reservations.
Theehuis Himalaya, Warmoesstr. 56 (626 08 99; www.himalaya.nl). The back room houses a Buddhist-themed theehuis that serves light vegetarian and vegan lunches as well as 40 varieties of tea. Tasty tostis ‚3-3.50. Pies ‚3-3.25. Open M l-6pm, Tu-W and F-Sa 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8:30pm, Su 12:30-5pm. AmExMCV.
Aneka Rasa, Warmoesstr. 25-29 (626 15 60). Find elegance amid the seediness of the Red Light District. Indonesian rijsttafel (rice table) ‚16-27 per person. Open daily 5-10:30pm. AmExMCV.
New Season, Warmoesstr. 39 (625 61 25). Pan-Asian, family-style, sit-down eatery serves Cantonese, Szechuan, Thai, and Malaysian dishes (‚7-10). Vegetarian plates ‚5-6. Open Su and Tu-Sa 3-1 lpm. AmExMCV.
Foodism, Oude Leliestr. 8 (427 51 03). Swanky, small restaurant serves sandwiches (from ‚4), soups and salads (from ‚3.50), and pasta dishes (from ‚8) on a lovely canal-side street. Open M-Th and Su llam-lOpm, F-Sa ll:30am-llpm.
Taste of Culture, Zeedijk 109 ( 638 14 66). Many an eating contest has been inspired by Taste of Culture’s offer: All you can eat in lhr. ‚7.50. Open M-W noon-1 lpm, Th-Su until midnight. Another location at Rokin 152 ( 638 12 49). Cash only.
Green Planet, Spuistr. 122 (625 82 80; www.greenplanet.nl). Die-hard vegetarian restaurant with brilliant soups (around ‚5.50) and other creative vegetarian dishes. Organic wines and beers from ‚2.50. The only restaurant in The Netherlands to use biodegradable packaging for takeout. Open M-Sa 1 lam-1 lpm.
Hoi Tin, Zeedijk 122-124 (625 64 51). Remarkably authentic dim sum (llam-5pm) and dinner meals await at this slightly upscale local favorite in Chinatown. Dim sum ‚2.30-3.80. Entrees ‚8-14.50. Open daily 1 lam-1 lpm. Cash only.