Cozumel & Mexico Cruises

The islan

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d of Cozumel, just off Mexico's Yucatan coast, is one of the busiest cruise ports on the planet, with up to 16 ships visiting every

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day

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during high season, counting those that anchor offshore an

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d ferry in passengers. All that activity can make the port town of San Miguel seem more like Times Square than the sleepy, refreshingly gritty town it once was. Outsi

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de town, though,

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development hasn't

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destroye

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d the islan

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d's natural beauty, inclu

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ding acres of low-lying scrub forest containing protecte

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d plant an

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d animal species.

Doing the Yucatan Ruins.

The largest an

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d most fable

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d of the Yucatan ruins, Chichen Itza (meaning Mouth of the Well of the Itza Family) was foun

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de

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d in a.

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d. 445 by the Mayans an

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d later inhabite

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d by the Toltecs of central Mexico. At its height, the city ha

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d about 50, 000 resi

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dents, but it was relinquishe

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d to the surroun

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ding jungle in the early 13th century. The area covers 18 sq. Km (7 sq. Miles), so you can see only a fraction of it on a

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day trip. What you will see is the magnificent El Castillo pyrami

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d, intricately built with the Maya calen

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dar in min

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d; the Sacre

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d Cenote, where sacrificial victims were

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drowne

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d; the won

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derfully preserve

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d Ball Court (Juego

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de Pelota); the richly carve

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d Temple of the Warriors; the evocative Temple of the Jaguars, an

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d the gruesome Temple of the Skulls (Tzompantli).

Only a 30-minute

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drive from Playa

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del Carmen, the small walle

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d city of Tulum is the single-most-visite

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d Maya ruin. From its

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dramatic perch atop seasi

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de cliffs, you can see won

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derful panoramic views of the Caribbean. Tulum's ruins inclu

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de a temple to Kukulkan, the primary Maya/Olmec go

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d; the Temple of the Frescoes, the Temple of the Descen

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ding Go

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d, the House of Columns, an

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d the House of the Cenote. There's also a sliver of silky beach below the site, so bring your bathing suit for a refreshing

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dip.

A 35-minute

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drive northwest of Tulum, Coba was once one of the most important city-states in the Maya empire; its pyrami

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d, Nohoch Mul, is the tallest in the Yucatan. Archaeologists estimate that only a small percentage of this

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dea

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d city has yet been uncovere

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d; its 81 primitive acres provi

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de excellent opportunities for exploration by hikers.

For us the major allure of Cozumel remains its proximity to the ancient Mayan ruins on the Yucatan Peninsula (see the box above), which are generally offere

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d as

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day-trip excursions. In recent years, a han

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dful of mainlan

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d Yucatan ports have also come onto the scene: Playa

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del Carmen, which is a 45-miute ferry ri

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de from Cozumel; Calica, just south of Playa, where there's little more than a pier; Progreso, on the Gulf coast of the Yucatan, making it the closest to Chichen Itza, as well as the city of Meri

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da; an

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d Costa Maya, about 161km (100 miles) south near the sleepy fishing village of Mahajual. Un

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der the sea Offshore, 32km (20 miles) of coral reefs have been set asi

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de as an un

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derwater national park, inclu

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ding the stunning Palancar Reef, the worl

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d's secon

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d-largest natural coral formation. Cheesy but fun Just south of the cruise terminals, the Discover Mexico theme park (www.

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discovermexicopark. Com ) offers scale mo

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dels of Mexico's most famous archaeological sites an

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d colonial buil

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dings. For nature lovers About a $10 taxi ri

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de from the center of San Miguel, the Chankanaab Nature Park (www.cozumelparks. Com ) is a combination archaeological park, botanical gar

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den, an

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d wil

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dlife sanctuary (croco

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diles! Sea lions! ), with a wi

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de white-san

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d beach an

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d un

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derwater statues for snorkelers to a

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dmire. Top beach Cozumel's best pow

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dery white-san

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d beach, Playa San Francisco, stretches for some 5km (3 miles) along the southwestern shoreline.

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