Once the center of the world’s richest and farthest-reaching empire, Lisbon (pop. 1,971,000) hit its peak at the end of the 15th century when Portuguese navigators pioneered explorations of Asia, Africa, and South America. Aching with saudade for its past, the city works to preserve its rich history, continually renovating its monuments and meticulously maintaining its black-and-white mosaic sidewalks, pastel facades, and cobbled medieval alleys. In 1998, Lisbon hosted the World Expo, sparking a citywide face-lift and beginning a movement to reclaim its place as one of Europe’s grandest cities.


Flights: Aeroporto de Lisboa (LIS; 218 41 35 00), on the city’s northern edge. Buses #44 and 45 (15-20min. every 12-15min. ‚1) and the express AeroBus #91 (15min. every 20min. ‚1) go to Pr. dos Restauradores from outside the terminal. A taxi to downtown costs about ‚6, plus a ‚1.50 luggage fee.

Trains: Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses (800 20 09 04; Four main stations, each serving different destinations. Portuguese trains are usually quite slow; buses are often a better choice.

Estaao do Barreiro, across the Rio Tejo, goes south. Station accessible by ferry from the Terreiro do PaQO dock off Pr. do Comercio (30min,, every 30min. price included in train ticket). Trains to Evora (2!hr. 7 per day, ‚7.50) and Lagos (52hr. 5 per day, ‚14).

Estaao Cais do Sodre (213 47 01 81), to the right of Pr. do Comercio when walking from Baixa. M: Cais do Sodre. To Estoril and Cascais (30min. every 20min. ‚1).

Estaaao Rossio (213 46 50 22), serves points west. M: Rossio or Restauradores. To Sintra (45mln. every 15-30min. ‚1.30) via Queluz (‚0.80),

Estaaao Santa Apolonia (218 88 40 25), on Av. Infante Dom Henrique, east of the Alfama on the Rio Tejo, runs the international, northern, and eastern lines. Take bus #9, 39, 46, or 90 to Pr. dos Restauradores and Estagao Rossio. To: Coimbra (22hr. 8 per day, ‚16); Madrid (10hr. 10pm, ‚52); Porto (4V4hrž 8 per day, ‚21).

Buses: Arco do Cego, Av. loao Crisostomo, around the block from M: Saldanha. All Saldanha buses (#36, 44, 45) stop in the praga (‚0.60), Fast Rede Expressos buses (213 10 31 11; go to many destinations, including: Coimbra (2Vihr. 16 per day, ‚9.40); Evora (2hr. 13 per day, ‚9.80); Lagos (5hr. 9 per day, ‚15); Porto (4hr. 7 per day, ‚14), via Leiria.

Public Transportation: CARRIS (213 61 30 00; operates buses, trams, and funiculars (each ‚1); passe turistico (tourist pass) good for unlimited CARRIS travel. 1-day pass ‚2.40, 3-day pass ‚5.70, 4-day pass ‚10, 7-day pass ‚15. The Metro (213 55 84 57; covers downtown and the modern business district. Individual tickets ‚0.65; book of 10 tickets ‚5.10. Trains run daily 6:30am-lam; some stations close earlier.

Taxis: Radio Taxis de Lisboa (218 11 90 00), Autocoope (217 93 27 56), and Teletaxis (218 1111 00) all line up along Av. da Liberdade and Rossio.


The city center is Baixa, the old business area, between Bairro Alto and Alfama. Baixa’s grid of mostly pedestrian streets is bordered to the north by Rossio (a.k.a. Praa Dom Pedro IV), adjacent to Pra?a dos Restauradores (at the tourist office and airport bus stop); Avenida da Liberdade runs north, uphill from Pr. dos Restauradores. At Baixa’s southern end is the Praqa do Comercio, on the Rio Tejo (River Tagus). Along the river are the Expo ’98 grounds, now called the Parque das Na;des (Park of Nations), and the fast-growing Alcantara and Docas (docks) districts. Alfama, a labyrinth of narrow alleys and stairways beneath the Castelo de Sao Jorge, is the city’s oldest district. Across Baixa from Alfama is Bairro Alto and its upscale shopping district, the Chiado, which is traversed by R. do Carmo and R. Garrett, near much of the city’s nightlife.


Tourist Offices: Palacio da Foz, Pr. dos Restauradores (213 46 33 14). M: Restauradores. The mother of all Portuguese tourist offices, this houses info about the entire country. The Welcome Center, Pr. do Comercio ( 210 31 28 10), is the office for the city of Lisbon. Both offices open daily 9am-8pm. Office at the Aeroporto de Lisboa (218 45 06 60) is just outside the baggage claim area. Open daily 8am-2am.

Embassies: Australia, Av. da Liberdade 200-2 (213 10 15 00;; Canada, Av. da Liberdade 198-200, 3rd fl. (213 16 46 00;; Ireland, R. Imprensa a Estrela, 4th fl. (213 92 94 40; fax 97 73 63); New Zealand (consulate), R. do S. Felix 13-2 ( 213 50 96 90); South Africa, Av. Luis Bivar 10 ( 213 19 22 00;; UK, R. Sao Bernardo 33 (213 92 40 00;; US, Av. das Forgas Armadas (217 27 33 00;

Currency Exchange: Cota Cambio, Pr. Dom Pedro IV 41 ( 213 22 04 80). Open M-Sa 9am-8pm. The main post office, most banks, and travel agencies also change money. Exchanges line the streets of Baixa. Ask about fees first-they can be exorbitant.

American Express: Top Tours, Av. Duque de Louie 108 (213 19 42 90). M: Marques de Pombal. Exit the Metro stop and walk up Av. da Liberdade toward the Marques de Pombal statue, then turn right; the office is 2 blocks up on the left side of the street. Handles all AmEx functions. English spoken. Open M-F 9:30am-lpm and 2:30-6:30pm.

Luggage Storage: Estagao Rossio and Estagao Santa Apolonia. Lockers ‚4.50 for 24hr. Open daily 6:30am-lam.

English Bookstore: Livraria Britanica, R. Luis Fernandes 14-16 (213 42 84 72), in the Bairro Alto. Open M-F 9:30am-7pm.

Laundromat: Lavatax, R. Francisco Sanches 65A (218 12 33 92). Wash, dry, and fold ‚2 per 5kg. Open M-F 8:30am-lpm and 3-7pm, Sa 8:30am-lpm.


Emergency: 112. Ambulance: 219 42 11 11.

Police: R. Capelo 13. 213 46 61 41. English spoken.

24hr. Pharmacy: Call directory assistance 118. Rotates; check the list posted on the door of any pharmacy.

Medical Services: Hospital Ingles, R. Saraiva de Carvalho 49 (213 95 50 67). Cruz Vermelha Portuguesa, R. Duarte Galvao 54 (217 71 40 00).

Internet Access: Web C@fe, R. Diario de Noticias 126 (213 42 11 81). ‚2 per 15min. ‚2.50 per 30min. ‚4 per hr. Open daily 4pm-2am. Abracadabra, Pr. Dom Pedro IV 66. ‚1 per 15min. ‚3 per hr. Open daily 8am-9:30pm. Cyber.bica, R. Duques Braganga 7 (213 22 50 04), close to Lgo. Chiado, down R. Raiva de Andrade. ‚0.80 per 15min. ‚3 per hr. Open M-Th 1 lam-midnight, F llam-2am.

Post Office: Marked by red Correios signs. Main office (213 23 89 71), Pr, dos Res-tauradores. Open daily 8am-7pm. Branch office ( 213 22 09 21) at Pr. do Comercio. Open M-F 8:30am-6:30pm. Credit cards not accepted. Postal Code: 1100 for central Lisbon.


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