Coveted by pirates in the 18th century, Mykonos is still lusted sifter by those seeking revelry and excess. Nightlife, both gay and straight, abounds on this island, the expensive playground of chic sophisticates. Ambling in colorful alleyways at dawn or dusk is the cheapest and most exhilarating way to experience the island, especially Mykonos Town. All of Mykonos’s beaches are nudist, but the degree of bareness varies. Plati Yialos, Paradise Beach, and Super Paradise Beach are the most daring; Elia is a bit tamer. Buses run south from South Station to Plati Yialos (every 30min. ‚1), where caiques (little boats) go to the other beaches (around ‚1.50); direct buses also run to Paradise from South Station (every 30min. ‚ 1) and to Elia from North Station (30min. 8 per day, ‚1). After 11pm, wild dancing and irresistible hedonism are the norm at Pierro’s on Matogianni (beer ‚5). The Skandinavian Bar on the waterfront has something for everyone in its two-building party complex. (Beer and shots ‚3-4. Open Su-F 8:30pm-3am, Sa 8:30pm-4am.)

Ferries run to: Naxos (3hr. 1-2 per day, ‚7.10); Santorini (6hr. 3 per week, ‚14); and Tinos (45min. 3 per day, ‚4). The helpful tourist police are located at the ferry landing. ( 22890 22 482. Open daily 8am-llpm.) Most budget travelers bed down at Mykonos’s several festive campsites, which offer a myriad of sleeping options beyond the standard plot of grass. There are information offices on the dock, one for hotels and one for camping. (Hotels 22890 24 540; open daily 9am-midnight. Camping 22890 23 567; open daily 9am-midnight.) Hotel Philippi , Kalogera 25, across from Zorzis Hotel, provides cheerful rooms with bath, fridge, and AC around a bountiful garden. ( 22890 22 294; chriko@ote- Open Apr.-Oct. Singles ‚35-60; doubles ‚45-75). The lively Paradise Beach Camping O, 6km from the village, is directly on the beach. ( 22890 22 852. ‚5-7 per person, ‚2.50-3 per tent, 2-person beach cabin ‚20-45.) Cheap creperies and souvlaki joints are on nearly all of Mykonos’s streets. Appaloosa , one block from Taxi Square on Mavrogeneous, serves mostly Mexican selections. (Entrees ‚9-11. Open daily 8pm-l:30am.) Postal Code: 84600.

DAYTRIP FROM MYKONOS: DELOS. Delos (ArXoi;) is the sacred center of the Cyclades. The archaeological site, which occupies much of the small island, takes several days to explore completely, but its highlights can be seen in about three hours. From the dock, head straight to the Agora of the Competaliasts; continue in the same direction and turn left onto the wide Sacred Road to reach the Sanctuary of Apollo, a collection of temples built from Mycenaean times onward. On the right is the biggest and most famous, the Great Temple of Apollo. Continue 50m past the end of the Sacred Road to the beautiful Terrace of the Lions. The museum, next to the cafeteria, contains an assortment of archaeological finds. (Open Su and Tu-Sa 8:30am-3pm. ‚5, students ‚2.) A path from the museum leads to the summit of Mt. Kythnos (112m), from which Zeus watched Apollo’s birth. Excursion boats leave the dock near Mykonos Town for Delos (35min. 3 per day, round-trip ‚ 10).

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