Italy’s third-largest city, Naples (pop. 1,000,000) is also its most chaotic shouting merchants flood markets, and summer traffic jams clog the broiling city. Striving to shed its bad reputation, Naples has made many improvements in recent years despite continuing problems with poverty and unemployment, including increased efforts to maintain its numerous architectural and artistic treasures. Public art and artisan’s workshops abound, as well as some of Italy’s most colorful trattorie, and of course, Neapolitan pizzarie peerless throughout the world.
Flights: Aeroporto Capodichino, V. Umberto Maddalena (NAP; 081 789 61 11), northwest of the city. Connects to all major Italian and European cities. A CLP bus (081 531 16 46) leaves from P. Municipio (20min. 6am-10:30pm, ‚1.55).
Trains: Ferrovie dello Stato goes from Stazione Centrale to: Brindisi (5hr. 5 per day, ‚19); Milan (8hr. 13 per day, ‚50); Rome (2hr. 34 per day, ‚9.60). Circumvesuvi-ana ( 081 772 24 44), heads for Herculaneum (‚1.55) and Pompe(‚1.90).
Ferries: Depart from Molo Angioino and Molo Beverello, at the base of P. Municipio. From P. Garibaldi, take tram #1; from P. Municipio, take the R2 bus. Caremar, Molo Beverello (081 551 38 82), goes frequently to Capri and Ischia (both r2hr. ‚5). Tirrenia Lines, Molo Angioino (081 720 11 11), goes to Palermo, Sicily, and Cagliari, Sardinia. Schedules and prices change frequently, so check Qui Napoli (free at the tourist office).
Public Transportation: Giranapotickets (‚0.80 per lVihr. full-day ‚2.35) are valid on buses, Metro, trams, and funiculars.
Taxis: Free (081 551 51 51) or Napoli (081 556 44 44). Only take metered taxis. W ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION
The main train and bus terminals are in the immense Piazza Garibaldi on the east side of Naples. From P. Garibaldi, broad Corso Umberto I leads southwest to P. Bovi, from which V. de Pretis leads left to Piazza Municipio, the city center, and Piazza Trieste e Trento and Piazza Plebiscito. Below P. Municipio lie the Stazione Marittima ferry ports. From P. Trieste e Trento, Via Toledo (also known as Via Roma) leads through the Spanish quarter to Piazza Dante. Make a right into the historic Spaccanapoli neighborhood, which follows Via dei Tribunali through the middle of town. While violence is rare in Naples, theft is fairly common, so exercise caution.
Tourist Offices: EPT (081 26 87 79), at Stazione Centrale. Helps with hotels and ferries. Grab II Qui Napoli, a monthly tourist publication full of schedules and listings. Open M-Sa 9am-8pm. Branch at Stazione Mergellina.
Consulates: Canada, V. Carducci 29 (081 40 13 38). South Africa, C. Umberto 1 (081 551 75 19). UK, V. dei Mille 40 (081 423 89 11). US, P. della Repubblica (081 583 81 11, emergency 03 37 94 50 83), at the west end of Villa Comunale. Currency Exchange: Thomas Cook, at the airport (081 551 83 99). Open M-F 9:30am-lpm and 3-6:30pm.
Emergency: 113. Police: 113 or 081 794 11 11. English spoken.
Hospital: Cardarelli (081 747 28 59), on the R4 line. Ambulance: 081 752 06 96. Internet Access: Internet Point, V. Toledo 59A, across from the Bank of Naples (081 497 60 90). ‚2 per hr. Open daily 9:30am-8:30pm. Internetbar, P. Bellini 74 (081 29 52 37). ‚3 per hr. Open M-Sa 9am-2am, Su 8am-2am.
Post Office: P. Matteotti (081 552 42 33), at V. Diaz on the R2 line. Address mail to be held: First name, SURNAME, In Fermo Posta, P. Matteotti, Naples 80100, ITALY. Open M-F 8:15am-6pm, Sa 8:15am-noon.
Although Naples has some fantastic bargain lodgings, especially near Piazza Garibaldi, be cautious when choosing a room. Avoid hotels that solicit customers at the station, never give your passport until you’ve seen the room, agree on the price before unpacking, be alert for unexpected costs, and gauge how secure a lodging seems. The ACISJFCentro D’Ascolto, at Stazione Centrale, helps women find safe rooms. (081 28 19 93. Open M-Tu and Th 3:30-6:30pm.) Rooms are scarce in the historic district between P. Dante and the duomo.
Ostello Mergellina (HI), V. Salita della Grotta, 23 (081 761 23 46; fax 081 761 23 91). M: Mergellina. From the Metro station, make 2 sharp rights onto V. Piedigrotta and then a right onto V. Salita della Grotta. Turn right on the long driveway after overpass. Outstanding views of Vesuvius and Capri from terrace area. Laundry ‚5.20. Lockout 9am-3pm. Strict curfew 12:30am. Dorms ‚14; doubles ‚54.
Casanova Hotel, C. Garibaldi 333 (081 26 82 87; www.hotelcasanova.com). From P. Garibaldi, continue down C. Garibaldi and turn right before V. Casanova. Clean, airy rooms, and a rooftop terrace. Breakfast ‚4. Reserve ahead. Singles ‚23-26, with bath ‚26-30; doubles ‚38-4247-52; triples ‚55-68; quads ‚69-78. 10% Let’s Go discount. AmExMCV.
B Hostel Pensione Mancini, V. Mancini 33 (081 553 67 31; www.hostelpensioneman-cini.com), off the far end of P. Garibaldi from the train station. Multilingual, friendly owners share their encyclopedic knowledge of Naples. Spacious, newly renovated rooms. Check-in and check-out noon. Dorms ‚18; singles ‚35; doubles ‚45, with bath ‚55; triples ‚80; quads ‚90. 0
Hotel Zara, V. Firenze 81 (081 28 71 25; www.hotelzara.it). Quiet, spacious, newly renovated rooms, all with TV and AC. Singles ‚30; doubles ‚45, with bath ‚55; triples ‚75. 5% Let’s Go discount
Hotel Ginevra, V. Genova 116 (081 28 32 10; www.hotelginevra.it). Exit P. Garibaldi on C. Novara, then turn right on V. Genova; climb the steps to the 2nd floor. A short, well-lit walk from the train station, Ginerva is good for late-night arrivals. Clean, family-run establishment. Singles ‚25, with bath ‚45; doubles ‚4550; triples ‚6075; quads ‚7080. 10% Let’s Go discount when paying cash. AmExMCV.
B Hostel Soggiorno Imperia, P. Miraglia 386 (081 45 93 47). Take the R2 from the train station, walk up V. Mezzocannone through P.S. Domenico Maggiore, and enter the 1st set of green doors to the left on P. Miraglia. Clean rooms in a 16th-century palazzo. Call ahead. Dorms ‚16; singles ‚30; doubles ‚42; triples ‚60.
6 Small Rooms, V. Diodato Lioy 18 (081 790 13 78), up from P. Monteolovieto. Larger rooms than its name suggests in a friendly atmosphere. There is no sign; look for the name on the call button. Dorms ‚16; singles ‚21.
Hostel of the Sun, V. Melisurgo 15 (fax 081 420 63 93; www.hostelnapoli.com), across the street from Bella Capri. Buzz #51 to get in. Young owners make this a happening spot. Large dorms and excellent private rooms. Internet access ‚2.60 per hr. Dorms ‚18; singles without bath ‚45; doubles ‚50, with bath ‚70; triples ‚7090; quads ‚90100. 10% Let’s Go discount.
Pensione Bella Capri, V. Melisurgo 4, door B, 6th fl. (081 552 94 94; www.bellaca-pri.it), at corner of V. Cristofor Colombo, across street from the port. Take the R2 bus to the end of V. de Pretis, cross the street, and turn onto V. Melisurgo. From courtyard enter door B and go to the 6th floor. Less-expensive alternative to the high-priced hotels on the waterfront, with great views of Vesuvius and the port. Singles ‚70; doubles ‚80; triples ‚110; quads ‚120. 10% Let’s Go discount AmExMCV.
Hotel des Artistes, V. Duomo 61 ( 081 44 61 55; www.hoteldesartistesnaples.it). Conveniently located for exploring the historic district’s sites. Intimate and inviting, all 11 rooms have balconies and luxurious bedspreads, plus bath, phone, AC, and TV. Singles ‚66-80; doubles ‚80-115; triples ‚95-120; quads ‚115-130. 10% Let’s Go discount. AmExMCV.
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