Exactly why the Irish pub became the de facto form of Roman nightlife is unclear, but that’s the way it is. Rome has more pubs than Dublin, and more are on the way. Not all of Rome’s pubs are Irish; some claim to be English, Scottish, American, or Brazilian, and some are distinctly Roman. Nationality is in the eye of the drinker.

Jonathan’s Angels, V.d. Fossa 14-16. West of P. Navona. Not since Pope Julius II has there been a case of Roman vanity as severe as that of Jonathan, whose face serves as the theme for the decor in this bar. Medium beer on tap ‚5; delicious cocktailslong drinks ‚8. Open M-F 5pm-2am, Sa and Su 3pm-2am.

Trinity College, V.d. Collegio Romano 6. Off V.d. Corso near P. Venezia. Offers degrees in such diverse curricula as Guinness, Harp, and Heineken. Tuition ‚5. Happy Hour noon- 8pm. Classes held every day llam-3am. AmExMCV.

Simposio, V.d. Latini 11. Off V. Tiburtina. Chances are good that on any given night a splattered painter will be hard at work beautifying a discarded refrigerator. With cocktails from ‚3.50 and a glass of fragolino for ‚2.75, even starving artists can afford the place. Open daily 9pm-2am. Closed late July-Aug.

The Nag’s Head, V. IV Novembre 138b. Dance floor inside; live music twice a week. Guinness ‚5; cocktails ‚8. Cover ‚5; F and Sa men ‚7.80; no cover Su. Open in summer daily 8pm-2am; winter noon-2am. MCV.

Nuvolari, V. degli Ombrellari 10. Off V. Vittorio. This cocktail bar (serving beer and tropical drinks) also functions as an enoteca with wine by the glass (‚3.50), a diverse wine list, and the usual salads (choose from 30 at ‚6 each) and meat and cheese platters (‚7.50). Open M-Sa 8pm-2am.

Friend’s, V. Piave 71. From P. Independenza take V. Goito, then cross V. XX Settembre onto Via Piave. Plenty of outdoor seating and stainless steel interior. Chill music and all manner of cocktails (‚5.50). Beer ‚4-4.50. Happy Hour 7-9:30pm. Open M-Sa 7:30am-2am, Su 6pm-2am. AmExVMC.

Artu Cafe, Largo Fumasoni Biondi 5. Good selection of drinks. Enjoy specialty cocktails made with fresh juices (‚6.20-7.20). Beer ‚4.50. Wine ‚3-5.50. Free apertivi buffet 6:45-9pm. Open Tu-Su 6pm-2am. MCV.

Pub Hallo’Ween. P. Tiburtino 31, at the corner of V. Tiburtina and V. Marsala. Plastic skulls and fake spiders and spiderwebs. Beer ‚3.70-4.20. Mixed drinks ‚4.20-5.20. Open Sept.-July M-Sa 8:30pm-2:30am, Su 5pm-2:30am.

Shanti, V. dei Conciatori 11. From M: Piramide, head down V. Ostiense; take second street on the right. Yes, these surely are some of the best cocktails (‚6-7) to be had in Rome. Great Hookahs (‚2.60 per person). Belly dancing Sept.-Mar. W-F llpm-lam. Open Sept.-July daily 9pm-lam. Closed on Su in July.

ketumbar, V. Galvani 24. A taste of New York decadence in the middle of Italy. It even doubles as a Japanese restaurant (sushi plates ‚18-36). Wear black; everyone else will. Open Sept.-July M-Sa 8pm-3am. AmExMCV.

Mount Gay Music Bar, V. Galvani 54. Grab a pillow on the floor and sip your cocktail (‚8) alongside Rome’s young and beautiful. Open daily llpm-6am. MCV.

The Proud Lion Pub, Borgo Pio 36. The outside of the pub says Rome, Borgo Pio,” but the beer and scotch says Hey, I don’t forget my Highland roots. Beer and mixed drinks ‚4. Single malts ‚4.50-5. Open M-Sa 8:30-late.

The Drunken Ship, Campo dei Fiori 20-21. Because you’re tired of meeting Italians. Because you feel the need to have an emotion-free fling with a kindred spirit. Because you’re proud to be an American, dammit. Happy Hour daily 5-8pm. W 9-10pm power hour (all you can drink; ‚6). Open daily llam-2am. AmExMCV.

Sloppy Sam’s, Campo dei Fiori 9-10. The identical twin of the Drunken Ship. Note that once home, wistful stories about that special someone you befriended at Sloppy Sam’s will probably be regarded cynically. Beer ‚3.50; shots ‚2.50. Ask about theme nights. Happy Hour 4-8pm. Open M-F 4pm-2am, Sa-Su llam-2am. AmExMCV.

Night and Day, V.d. Oca 50. Off V. di Ripetta near P. del Popolo. Don’t even think of coming until the rest of the bars close. At 2am, Italians who don’t let dawn stop their fun stream in. Buy a membership card (‚5) for discounts on drinks. Beer ‚3-5, Guinness ‚4.50. Happy Hour until midnight. Open daily 7pm-6am. Closed part of Aug.

Taverna del Campo, Campo dei Fiori, 16 (06 687 44 02). When munchies strike, head here for the famous shell-peanuts and other great snacks to soak up the alcoholic over-indulgence: Panini ‚4-6; bruschetta ‚3; salads ‚5-9. Wine by the glass ‚2.60-

One of the only establishments in Rome where you can drop in for a morning Guinness (‚5). Stay for lunch (a lot of vaguely Irish dishes, such as beef in Guinness, ‚6.50). Happy Hour M-F 3:30- 8pm. 40min. Internet access and one drink ‚5. Open daily llam-3am. AmExMCV.

Morrison’s, V. E.Q. Visconti 88. Two blocks north of P. Cavour. Harp, Kilkenny, and Guinness on tap, and an excellent selection of Irish and Scotch whiskey and bourbon. For those in the literary know, the James Joyce (blue curacao and Harp) is a must. Guinness ‚5. Mixed drinks ‚6.50. Open daily 6:30pm-2am. AmExMCV.

Julius Caesar, V. Castelfidardo 49. Just north of Termini near P. dell’lndipendenza. Upstairs features beer on tap (‚4.50-5.50), while the downstairs is filled with blaring live music most nights (10:30-11:30pm). Happy Hour half-price until 6:30pm. Residents at local hostels receive a 20% discount. Open daily 4:30pm-3am.

Coming Out Pub, V.S. Giovanni in Laterano 8. Right behind the Colosseum, next to the gladiator school. Great BGLTQ hang-out. In winter, pub hosts live music Th, games Tu, and karaoke W. Enjoy a bite to eat (‚5-7) before having a satisfying cocktails (‚5.50). Open daily 5pm-5am. Cash only.


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