Getting to the Trailhead
From La Colmena, head east on the newly paved road to Villarica. Continue 5.8 kilometers over the Arroyo Rory Mi stream (there is a bridge and a sign). After the bridge there is a bus stop, followed by a right-hand turn off on to a dirt road. There are sometimes signs for Isla Alta or Salto Cristal at this turn off. This dirt road has pavement and cobblestone on some of its steeper sections. After approximately 5.8 kilometers there will be a school (signed and Escuela Dr. Moises) and an Itaipu sign on left that says Base Chacra Salto Cristal 3 km and points straight – disregard the sign and take a left. Continue 1.5 kilometers and take a right. To your left you will see a road leading into sugar cane fields and there are woods to the right. After nearly half-a-kilometer, the road divides in to three. Take the middle road which is a slight left, and leads you away from the woods. Continue for 1.4 kilometers and you’ll see sugar cane fields on both sides of you. Make a left. here. About one kilometer later, follow the road as it curves left (ignoring a faint trail to the right) and at 1.6 kilometers you will cross over an earthen bridge. 1.1 kilometers past the bridge you will reach a yellow sign and follow the road to the right. Keep the woods on your right and sugar cane on your left. Continue 1.25 kilometers until the road ends in a clearing which usually has several large piles of fertilizer. The trailhead to Salto Cristal is to the right. Vehicles with high clearance can continue another 500 meters and park at the caretaker’s house.
Parque Nacional Ybycm
Due to its relative proximity to Asuncion, Parque Nacional Ybycui is one of Paraguay’s most popular national parks. The park, created in 1973, is approximately 5,000 hectares in size and known for its waterfalls and abundance of butterflies. The park also has much historical significance as it is the home of La Rosada, Latin America’s first iron foundry.
The recreational area begins approximately three kilometers down a dirt and sand road from the park’s entrance. To the left is a nice visitor’s center and a trail leading to a mirador (lookout point). To the right is the camp ground. Flat ground can be hard to come by as the entire area is sloped towards the Salto Mina waterfall which is often erroneously referred to as Salto Cristal. Past the campground is a trail leading to Salto Guarani which then backtracks to La Rosada. The bathroom facilities include showers, toilets, and ceramic latrines and are in generally nice condition (though not always clean). On the weekends, the park is full of visitors who come to hike the trails, swim at the base of the waterfalls and enjoy the scenery while grilling up some asado and playing volleyball. During the week it is much more tranquil (but the weekends offer more possibilities of hitch hiking the last couple of kilometers not serviced by bus). Campers should be sure to stock up on food (there are a number of small stores in Ybycui) before heading to the park.
Sidebar: Salto Mina in Parque Nacional Ybycui is often referred to as Salto Cristal. Do not be fooled! While Salto Mina is nice, it is not nearly as impressive as the real Salto Cristal.
Venturing Further into the Park
Approximately fourteen kilometers past the main recreational area near Salto Mina there is another series of three waterfalls formed by the Arroyo Corrientes creek known as Mbocaruzu 1, Mbocaruzu 2, and Mbocaruzu 3 in the compania of Mbocaya Pucu. These are not accessible by public transportation. Following the road through the park drive about 7.5 kilometers and then turn right for four more kilometers before turning left and continuing for about 2.7 kilometers. The road T’s out into the Arroyo Corrientes which forms the waterfalls. From here you can either park your car and continue on foot or ford the river (the water level is usually pretty low) and continue along its path about one kilometer before you reach the first waterfall, Mbokaruzu 1. This waterfall is quite large. The second waterfall, this one smaller with a series of small stepped rocks and a swimming hole, is about one kilometer further downstream. The third waterfall is not easily accessed due to a bifurcation in the Arroyo Corrientes. From Arroyo Corrientes the hike to the first two waterfalls is quite pleasant. Along the way you will pass the occasional person on foot or motorcycle but for the most part it will be just you and the beautiful scenery.
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