George Bernard Shaw once wrote: Those who seek Paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik. Nearly scarless despite recent wars, the city continues to draw visitors with azure waters and golden sunsets over its 14th-century marble walls. If you make it as far south as Dubrovnik, you might never leave.
TRANSPORTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION. Jadrolinija ferries 041 80 00) depart from opposite Obala S. Radica 40 for Bari, Italy (9hr. 5 per week, 329kn) and Split (8hr. daily, 115kn). Buses 035 70 88) run to: Sarajevo (6hr. 2 per day, 160kn); Split (412hr. 16 per day, 103kn); Trieste (15hr. daily, 325kn); and Zagreb (llhr. 7 per day, 175kn). To reach Staxi Grad, walk around the bus station, turn left on Ante Starcevica, and follow it uphill to the Old Town’s western gate (25min.). To reach the ferry terminal, head left from the station and then bear right. All local buses except #5, 7, and 8 go to Stari Grad’s Pile Gate (7kn at kiosks, lOkn from driver.) From the bus stop at Pile Gate, walk up Ante Starcevica away from Stari Grad to reach the Tourist Board, Ante Starcevica 7, which has free maps and pamphlets. 042 75 91. Open June-Sept. M-Sa 8am-8pm; Oct.-May 8am-3pm.) Turlstifika Zajednica Grada Dubrovnika, Cvijete Zuzoric 12, gives out the free, invaluable City Guide. 032 38 87. Open June-Aug. M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 9am-3pm, Su 9am-noon; Sept.-May M-F 8am-4pm.) Postal Code: 20000.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD. For two people, a private room is cheapest; arrange one through the Tourist Board (above; 80-150kn) or Atlas , Lucarica 1, next to St. Blasius’s Church. (44 25 28; www.atlas-croatia.com. Open June-Aug. M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 8am-lpm; Sept.-May M-Sa 8am-7pm. Singles 100-150kn; doubles 120-180kn.) For cheaper rooms, try haggling with the women
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