Kitchen open during pub hours.) Furze Bush Cafe Bistro 0, on the corner of Catherine St. and Glentworth St. offers delicious crepes (‚11.50) and gourmet sandwiches (‚7) in an eccentric atmosphere. (411 733. Open June-Aug. M-Sa 10:30am-5pm; Sept.-May M-W 10:30am-5pm, Th-Sa 10:30am-5pm and 7-10pm.)

Ennis’s proximity to Shannon Airport and the Burren makes it a common stopover for tourists, who come for a day of shopping followed by a night of pub crawling. At Cruises Pub, on Abbey St. local musicians appear nightly for cozy trad sessions in one of the oldest buildings in Co. Clare (est. 1658). Those with eclectic tastes should stop by Glor, a state-of-the-art music center that features nightly performances of both trad and more contemporary music, along with film, theater, and dance performances. (684 3103. Box office open M-Sa 9:30am- 5:30pm. Tickets ‚12-22.) Trains leave from Station Rd. for Dublin (1-2 per day, ‚27). Buses also leave from Station Rd. for: Cork (3hr. every hr. ‚14); Dublin (4hr. every hr. ‚14); Galway (lhr. 5 per day, ‚10); Limerick (40min. every hr. ‚6.70); and Shannon Airport (40min. every hr. ‚7). The tourist office is on Arthur’s Row, off O’Connell Sq. (28 366. Open July-Sept. daily 9am-lpm and 2- 6pm; Apr.-June and Oct. M-Sa 9:30am-lpm and 2-6pm; Nov.-Mar. M-F 9:30am-lpm and 2-6pm.) Abbey Tourist Hostel O, Harmony Row, overflows with flowers, and its rooms are clean and comfortable. ( 682 2620; www.abbeytouristhostel.com. Curfew Su-W 1:30am, Th 2:30am, F-Sa 3am. Dorms ‚12-15; singles ‚25; doubles ‚38.)

Something of a shrine to Irish music, the little village of Doolin draws thousands every year to its three pubs. The pubs are commonly known by the mnemonic MOM: ilMcDermott’s (in the Upper Village), O’Connor’s (in the Lower), and McGann’s (Upper). All have trad sessions nightly at 9:30pm. The HCIiffs of Moher, 10km south of town, feature a 200m vertical drop into the sea. Take the bus from Doolin (#50; 15min. 1-3 per day). Buses leave from Doolin Hostel for Dublin via Ennis and Limerick (#15; 2 per day) and Galway (#50; lVahr. 1-5 per day). Almost every house on the main road is a B&B in Doolin. Aille River Hostel (IHH) O, halfway between the Upper and Lower villages, has a friendly atmosphere and a gorgeous location. Check out the unofficial beer garden out front, next to the Aille River. ( 707 4260. Internet ‚6 per hr. Dorms ‚12; doubles ‚27. Camping ‚6.)


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