Holiday in Rome

Holiday in Rome

DESSERT AND COFFEE

Cheap gelato is as plentiful on Roman streets as leather pants. Look for gelato with very muted (hence natural) colors. Coffee (espresso) is Italian for wash away those early morning hostel lock-out blues.

IS San Crispino, V.d. Panetteria 42 ( 06 679 39 24). Near the Trevi Fountain. Facing the fountain, turn right onto V. Lavatore and take your 2nd left; it is inset on the right. Crispino is almost universally acknowledged as the best gelato in Rome. Every flavor is made from scratch. Cups ‚1.70-6.30. Branch at V. Acaia 56 (06 70 45 04 12), in Appio. Both open M, W-Th, and Su noon-12:30am; F-Sa noon-l:30am.

Hi The Old Bridge, V.d. Bastioni di Michelangelo (06 39 72 30 26), off P. del Risorgi- mento, perpendicular to the Vatican museum walls. Huge cups and cones (‚1.50-3) filled with your choice of 20 homemade flavors. Open M-Sa 9am-2am, Su 3pm-2am.

Giolitti, V.d. Uffici del Vicario 40 ( 06 699 12 43). 2 blocks north of the Pantheon, find V.d. Maddelena and walk to its end; V.d. Uffici del Vicario is on the right. Makes wonderful gelato in dozens of flavors (‚1.55-2.60), as well as ices laden with fresh fruit. Festive and crowded at night. Open daily 9am-lam. AmExDMCV.

Pasticceria Ebraica Boccione, Portico d’Ottavia 1 (06 687 86 37). Little fanfare, just long lines of locals who line up for what they all acknowledge to be the best pastries in Rome. Torta Riccotta Vicciole and Torta Ricotta Cioccolate are the most famous of their creations (‚10.30 per kg). Open Su-Th 8am-8pm, F 8am-5:30pm.

Bar Giulia (a.k.a. Caffe Peru), V. Giulia 84 ( 06 686 13 10), near P. V. Emmanuele II. Giulia serves what may be the cheapest (and most delicious) coffee in Rome (‚0.70), and they’ll add your favorite liqueur at no extra charge. Open M-Sa 4am-9:30pm.

Tazza d’Oro, V.d. Orfani 84-86 ( 06 679 27 68). Facing away from the Pantheon’s portico, the yellow-lettered sign is on the right. No seating, but the highest quality coffee in Rome, their signature regina” arabica. In summer, get the granita di caffS with fresh whipped cream (‚1.30). Espresso ‚0.65. Cappuccino ‚0.80. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm.

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