ENTERTAINMENT
Agenda Cultural and Follow Me Lisboa have information on arts events and bullfights; both are free at kiosks in the Rossio, on R. Portas de Santo Antao, and at the tourist office.
FADO
Lisbon’s trademark is fado, an art combining singing and narrative poetry that expresses sorrowful saudade (nostalgia). The Bairro Alto has many fado joints off R. da Misericordia and on streets by the Igreja de Sao Roque, but the prices alone may turn a knife in your heart. Various bars offer free performances.
Machado, R. do Norte 91. Founded in 1937, Machado is one of the larger fado restaurants and features some of the most well-known cantadeiras and guitarists. Dinner may cost your daily budget. Entrees ‚19-30. Min. purchase ‚15. Open Su and Tu-Sa 8pm-3am; fado starts at 9:15pm. AmExMCV.
0 Faia, R. Barroca 56, between R. Atalaia and R. do Diario de Noticias. Elegant and expensive. Some of Portugal’s better known fadistas perform nightly. Min. purchase ‚18, includes 2 drinks. Entrees from ‚18. Menu ‚35. Open M-Sa 8pm-2am; fado starts at 9:30pm. AmExMCV.
0 Forcado, R. da Rosa 221. A traditional restaurant that features fado from Coimbra and Lisbon, as well as folk music and dance. Decorated with bullfighting pictures and azuie-jos. Min. purchase ‚15. Entrees ‚18-20. Open Su-Tu and Th-Sa 8pm-l:30am; fado starts at 9:15pm. AmExMCV.
Cristal Fados, Tv. da Queimada 9, on the corner of R. do Norte. With less famous singers and less luxurious meals, have dinner without blowing your budget. Min. purchase ‚7. Entrees ‚8-11. Open daily 8:30pm-lam; fado Su and Th-Sa. AmExMCV.
In June, the people of Lisbon spill into the city for a summer’s worth of revelry. Open-air feiras (fairs) smorgasbords of eating, drinking, live music, and dancing fill the streets. After savoring farturas (Portuguese pastries) and Sagres beer, few hesitate to join in traditional Portuguese dancing. On the night of June 12, the streets explode in song and dance in honor of St. Anthony during the Festa de Santo Antonio. Banners are strung between streetlights, confetti falls like snow during a parade along Av. da Liberdade, and young crowds pack the streets of Alfama for grilled sardinhas (sardines), ging-inha, and merriment. Lisbon also has a number of commercial feiras. From late May to early June, bookworms burrow for three glorious weeks during the Feira do Livro in the Parque Eduardo VII behind Pr. Marques do Pombal. The Feira Internacionai de Lisboa, which has moved to the Parque das Na?oes, occurs every few months, while in July and August the Feira de Mar de Cascais and the Feira de Artesania de Estoril (celebrating famous Portuguese pottery) take place near the casino. Year-round feiras include the Feira de Oeiras (antiques) on the fourth Sunday of every month and the Feira de Carcanelos for clothes (Th 8am-2pm). Packrats should catch the Feira da Ladra (flea market), held behind the Igreja de Sao Vicente de Fora in Gra?a (Tu and Sa 7am-3pm). To get there, take bus #104 or #105 or tram #28.
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