NEAR THE CITY PERIPHERY
La Cordata, V. Burigozzo 11 (a02 58 31 46 75; www.lacordata. It). MM3: Missori. From P. Missori, take the tram 2 stops to Italia (Lusardi), walk same direction for 1 block, and turn right on V. Burigozzo. Entrance is around the corner from La Cordata camping store. Founded by a group of educators in the 1980s as a non-profit cooperative, this hostel of sky-blue walls and whimsical murals houses mostly college-aged backpackers. Rooms have bath. Loose curfew 11: 30pm. Dorms ‚16.
Hotel Ullrich, C. Italia 6, 6th fl. (a02 86 45 01 56; fax 02 80 45 35). MM3: Missori. Near P. Missori. 5min. Walk from the duomo. Clean rooms with TV. Singles ‚45-55; doubles ‚68-78. MCV.
Ostello Piero Rotta (HI), V. Salmoiraghi 1 (a02 39 26 70 95), northwest of city. MM1: QT8. Turn right facing the white church outside the Metro. The hostel will be on the right after about 300m. Laundry ‚5. 50. 3-night max. Stay. Daytime lockout. Curfew lam. HI membership required. Closed late Dec. To mid-Jan. Dorms ‚16.
Camping Citta di Milano, V. G. Airaghi 61 (02 48 20 01 34). From Stazione Centrale take the Metro to MM13: Duomo or MM12: Cadorna; from either of these, take bus #62 towards D'Angelli and get off at Vittoria Caldera. Closed Dec. -Jan. Laundry ‚4. 50. ‚13 per person. O
Like its fine couture, Milanese cuisine is sophisticated and sometimes overpriced. Specialties include risotto giallo (rice with saffron), cotoletta alia milanese (breaded veal cutlet with lemon), and cazzouela (a mixture of pork and cabbage). Pasticcerie and gelaterie crowd every block. Sample the Milanese favorite, panettone, an Italian fruitcake. Peck, V. Cantu 3, off V. Orefici near P. Duomo, has sold delectables like foie gras and Black Forest ham since 1883. (Open M 3-7: 30pm, Tu-Sa 8:45am-7:30pm. ) Supermarket Pam, V. Piccinni 2, is off C. Buenos Aires. (Open Su and Tu-Sa 8:30am-9pm, M 3-9pm. )
IfSavini, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (02 72 00 34 33). Opposite the McDonald's-in every way. Italian writer Castellaneta once said, Savini is as much a part of Milan as the Galleria and La Scala. ? Pay dearly for exquisite food, superb service, and most of all, bragging rights. Primi ‚14-20. Secondi ‚21-29. Cover ‚7. Service 12%. Open M-Sa 12:30-2: 30pm and 7:30-10: 30pm. AmExDCMCV.
Osteria del Binari, V. Tortona 1 (02 89 40 94 28). MM2: Porta Genova. Head to the C. Colombo side of P. Stazione Porta Genova. Cross the train tracks to V. Tortona. Walls knitted from grapevines, an attentive staff, and exquisite regional cuisine render del Binari the perfect setting for an intimate meal. Unless explicitly refused, a platter of anti- pasti (‚6) welcomes guests. Primi ‚6. Secondi ‚12. Open M-Sa 7pm-2am. MCV.
Osteria del Treno, V.S. Gregorio 4648 (02 670 04 79). MM23: Centrale F.S. Hearty and reasonably priced food; self-service lunch and primi go for ‚4. 20, secondi ‚6. 50. In the evening the restaurant is sit-down and prices rise by a euro or two. Open Su-F noon-2: 30pm and 7-10:30pm.
Caffe Vecchia Brera, V. Dell'Orso 20 (02 86 46 16 95). MM1: Cordusio. From P. Cordusio take V. Broletto until it becomes V. M. Vetero. Creperie is on the left, at the intersection of V. Dell'Orso and V. M. Vetero. This classic in the Brera district serves Parisian chic with an Italian kick. Service 11%. Crepes ‚3. 50-7. Open daily 7am-2am.
Osteria La Piola, V. Le Abruzzi 23 (02 29 53 12 71). Feast on homemade pasta and flavorful Lombardian cuisine at this osteria con cucina (tavern with a kitchen). Primi ‚8-
9. 50. Secondi ‚12-15. Open M-Sa 12:30-2: 30pm and 7:30-llpm. AmExDMCV.
II Panino Giusto, V. Malpighi 3 (02 29 40 92 97). From MM1: Porta Venezia, turn onto V. Piave, and then take a left on V. Malpighi. Gourmet sandwiches are some of the best in Milan (‚3.80-7).
II Fondaco del Mori, V. Solferino 33 (02 65 37 11). MM2; Moscova. Limited but exquisite Middle Eastern offerings under a richly furnished tent among carpets, cushions, and tapestries. Buffet ‚12. Appetizers ‚2.50-4. 50. Main courses ‚10-12. Cover ‚1. 60. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7:30pm-midnight. DCMCV.
Big Pizza: Da Willy 2, V. G. Borsi 1, along V. A. Sforza (02 83 96 77). This student favorite takes its name seriously: Witness the chefs shoving pies of epic proportions into the stone oven. Pizza ‚5-8. Open M-F 1 lam-midnight, Sa-Su 6pm-midnight.
Princi il Bread & Breakfast, V. Speronari 6, ( 02 87 47 97), off P. Duomo. A delicious break from the duomo's pricier sit-down options, this busy bakery touts golden focaccia slices and luscious strudel di mele (strudel with honey; ‚2. ) Open M-Sa 9am-8:30pm.