Paros is famed for its slabs of pure white marble, used for many of the great statues and buildings of the ancient world. Today’s visitors know the island for its tall mountains and long, golden beaches. Behind the commercial surface of Parikia (pop. 3,000), Paros’s port and largest city, flower-filled streets wind through archways and past one of the most treasured basilicas of the Orthodox faith, the Pana- gia Ekatontapiliani (Church of Our Lady of 100 Gates). Tradition holds that only 99 of the church’s 100 doors are visible when the 100th appears, Constantinople will again belong to the Greeks. (Dress modestly. Open daily 7am-10pm. Free.) Just 10km south of town is the shady, spring-fed iSValley of the Butterflies (a.k.a. Petaloudes), where rare Panaxiaquadripunctaria moths congregate during the mating season from June to late September. Take the bus from Parikia to Aliki (lOmin. 8 per day, ‚0.90) and ask to be let off at Petaloudes. Follow the signs 2km up the road. (Open June-Sept. daily 9am-8pm. ‚1.50.) The Parian Experience, along the waterfront, is a pulsating party complex with a spacious central courtyard and four simultaneous tunes. Follow the spotlight and crowds to the far end of the harbor. ( 22840 21 113. Beer ‚2-3. Mixed drinks ‚5-6. ‚3 discount on first drink.)

Ferries sail to Ios (2!2hr. 7-9 per day, ‚8.30) and Santorini (S’ahr. 7-9 per day, ‚ 12). The tourist police are on the plateia behind the telephone office, (a 22840 21 673. Open daily 7am-2:30pm.) Turn left at the dock and take a right after the cemetery ruins to reach the pleasant Rena Rooms 0. (a 22840 22 220. Doubles ‚18-39; triples ‚27-45. 20% discount for Let’s Go readers.) The psychedelic Happy Green Cow , a block off the plateia behind the National Bank, serves tasty vegetarian fare. (Entrees ‚8-12. Open Apr.-Nov. daily 7pm-midnight.) Postal Code: 84400.

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