Perugia (pop. 150,000) may boast the most polite people in Italy. With its gorgeous countryside, big-city vitality, and world-renowned chocolate, this city’s residents have much to smile about. Perugia’s most popular sights frame Piazza IV Novembre. In its center, the Fontana Maggiore is adorned with sculptures and bas-reliefs by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano. At the end of the piazza, the imposing

Gothic duomo houses the purported wedding ring of the Virgin Mary. (Open M-Sa 9am-12:45pm and 4-5:15pm, Su 4-5:45pm.) The 13th-century Palazzo dei Priori presides over the piazza and houses the impressive EiGalleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, C. Vannucci 19. (Open daily 8:30am-7:30pm. Closed 1st M each month. ‚6.50.) At the end of town past the Porta S. Pietro, the liBasilica di San Pietro, on Borao XX Guigo, has a beautiful garden. (Open daily 8am-noon and 3:30-6:30pm.)

Trains leave Perugia FS in P.V. Veneto, Fontiveggio, for: Assisi (25min. every hr. ‚1.60); Florence (2V6hr. 7 per day, ‚8); and Rome (2’2hr. 6 per day, ‚11) via Terontola or Foligno. From the station, take bus #6, 7, 9,13d, or 15 to the central P. Italia (‚0.80), then walk down C. Vannucci to P. TV Novembre and the tourist office, P. IV Novembre 3. (075 572 33 27; fax 075 573 93 86. Open M-Sa 8:30am-1:30pm and 3:30-6:30pm, Su 9am-lpm.) KOstello della GioventuCentro Internazio-nale di Accoglienza per la Gioventu O, V. Bontempi 13, has clean rooms and panoramic views. From the tourist office, walk down C. Vannucci past the duomo and P. Danti, take the farthest street directly through P. Piccinino, and turn right on V. Bontempi. (-s-fax 075 572 28 80; Sheets ‚1.50. Lockout 9:30am-4pm. Curfew midnight. Open mid-Jan. to mid-Dec. Dorms ‚12. MCVAmEx.) Albergo Anna , V. dei Priori 48, off C. Vannucci, has cozy 17th-century rooms with great views. (fax 075 573 63 04. Singles ‚40, with bath ‚45; doubles ‚46‚60; triples ‚70‚85. AmExMCV.) Local favorite Trattoria Dal Mi Cocco , provides prompt service and ample food at a reasonable price. (Menu ‚13. Open Su and Tu-Sa l-3pm and 8:45pm-midnight. MCV.) The COOP, P. Matteotti 15, has groceries. (Open M-Sa 9am-8pm.) Postal Code: 06100.

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