The undeniable jewel of Assisi (pop. 25,000) is the 13th-century UBasiiica di San Francesco. The subdued art of the lower church celebrates St. Francis’ modest lifestyle, while Giotto’s renowned Life of St. Francis fresco cycle decorates the walls of the upper church, paying tribute to his sainthood and consecration. A no shorts or tank tops dress code is strictly enforced. (Lower basilica open daily 6:15am-6:45pm. Upper basilica open daily 8:30am-6:45pm.) The dramatic fortress Rocca Maggiore towers above the town, offering panoramic view of the countryside. (Open daily lOam-dusk. ‚1.70, students ‚1.) The pink and white Basilica of Santa Chiara houses St. Francis’s tunic, sandals, and crucifix. (Open daily 9am-noon and 2-7pm.)

From the station near the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli, trains go to: Ancona (2hr. 8 per day, ‚7); Florence (2Mhr. 13 per day, ‚9); and Rome (2’Ata. 11 per day, ‚9). Buses run from P. Unita D’ltalia to Florence (212hr. 7am, ‚6.40) and Perugia (lVhr. 12 per day, ‚2.70). From P. Matteotti, follow V. del Torrione, bear left in P.S. Ruflno, and take V.S. Rufino to Piazza del Comune, the town center, and location of the tourist office. ( 079 81 25 34; Open M-F 8am-2pm and 3:30-6:30pm, Sa 9am-lpm and 3:30-6:30pm, Su 9am-lpm.) The lovely 11 Camere Martini , V.S. Gregorio 6, has lots of amenities and a friendly atmosphere. (fax 075 81 35 36; Singles ‚23-25; doubles ‚32-36; triples ‚48-52; quads ‚57.) Ostello Fontemaggio , V. per L’Eremo delle Carceri 8, has a variety of rooms, camping and a market. Take V. L’Eremo from P. Matteotti about 1.5km. ( 075 81 36 36; fax 075 81 37 49. Curfew 11pm. Camping ‚5; dorms ‚18.50; singles ‚36; doubles ‚52; quads ‚86.) Postal Code: 06081.

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