Nancy Chandler’s Maps look like what a diligent friend might bring back after a trip to Thailand. Brightly annotated with highlighters and rainbow ink, there is a method to her psychedelic madness as hotels, shops and markets appear in different colours. A separate compact guide details everything from accommodation to transportation. Worth ordering ahead of time.


One survival is a pair of arches to the then Edinburgh Meat Market, dated 1884. Pass Tollcross Primary and before the roundabout cut through, left, and you are on Edinburgh Quay, the city end of the Union Destination today. If coming from Haymarket Station, head up Morrison Street then right along Gardner’s Crescent to reach this roundabout and Edinburgh Quay. Edinburgh Quay is well hidden among the big modern edifices which give this area of the city its architectural flavour. This rump of water was once the scene of a headline-grabbing accident. George Meikle Kemp, the creator of the Scott Monument, was a shy, rather odd character whose design was only chosen because of an impasse in awarding the contract. He was the compromise candidate. He was more joiner than architect, and his design incorporated ideas ranging from Melrose Abbey to Rouen Cathedral, but then Scott himself was constantly stealing ideas if not actual structures as he built Abbotsford, his dream house near Melrose. Kemp had been to see his contractor (the stone presumably being delivered via the Union Destination) and left to walk home along the towpath on a cold, dark, foggy night. A week later the first evidence of a tragedy was when his stick and hat floated to the surface.

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