SALAMANCA

For centuries, the gates of Salamanca (pop. 152,600) have welcomed scholars, saints, rogues, and royals. The bustling city is famed for its exquisite silver filigree and golden sandstone architecture as well as its university the oldest in Spain, and once one of the four leading lights of the world along with the universities of Bologna, Paris, and Oxford.

TRANSPORTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Trains run from Po. de la Estacion ( 902 24 02 02) to Lisbon (6hr. 4:50am, ‚35) and Madrid (2Mhr. 5-6 per day 6am-7:50pm, ‚14). Buses run from Av. Filiberto Villalobos 71-85 (a-923 23 67 17) to: Leon (2V hr.; M-F 3 per day llam-6:30pm, Sa 11am, Su 10pm; ‚11); Madrid (3hr. M-Sa 16 per day, ‚10-15); and Segovia (3hr. 2 per day, ‚9). Visit the tourist office at Plaza Mayor 32. (923 21 83 42. Open M-Sa 9am-2pm and 4:30-6:30pm, Su 10am-2pm and 4:30-6:30pm.) Access the Internet at CiberPlaza, Plaza Mayor 10. (Open daily 10:30am-2am. 10:30am-9pm ‚1.20 per hr. 9pm-2am ‚0.90 per hr.)

ACCOMMODATIONS

Reasonably priced hostales and pensiones cater to the floods of student visitors, especially off Plaza Mayor and C. Melendez.

Pension Las Vegas, C. Melendez 13, 1st fl. (923 21 87 49). Friendly owners. Singles with shower ‚18; doubles ‚24, with bath ‚30-36; triples with bath ‚45. MCV.)

Pension Villanueva, C. San Justo 8, 1st fl. ( 923 26 88 33). Sra. Manuela shares local lore and gossip. Exit Plaza Mayor via PI. Poeta Iglesias, cross the street, and take the first left. Singles ‚13; doubles ‚26.

Hostal Anaya, C. Jesus 18, steps away from Plaza Mayor (923 27 17 73). Clean rooms, heating, and friendly service. Singles ‚24; doubles with shared bath ‚36, with private bath ‚42; triples ‚54; quads ‚72.

Pension Los Angeles, Plaza Mayor 10, 2nd and 3rd fl. (923 21 81 66). Unbeatable location right in Plaza Mayor. English spoken. Singles ‚15-16; doubles ‚28-30, with bath ‚30-32; triples ‚45.

Pension Lisboa, C. Melendez 1 (923 21 43 33). Pink stucco walls in rooms with sinks, some with rooftop city views. Singles ‚16; doubles ‚32.

Hostal Emperatriz, R. Mayor 16 (zrfax 923 21 87 83). This hostel operates out of the 2-star hotel next door. To register, go to the hotel lobby. Spacious rooms include full bathroom and telephone. Singles ‚24; doubles ‚33; triples ‚44.

Hotel Emperatriz, R. Mayor 18 (923 21 91 56). Offers well-lit rooms replete with medieval charm. Singles ‚36; doubles ‚51.

Camping: Regio on Ctra. Salamanca (923 13 88 88), 4km toward Madrid. Albertur buses run from Gran Via every 30min. First-class sites with hot showers. ‚3 per person, ‚5.50 per tent, and ‚2.90 per car. MCV.

FOOD

Cafes and restaurants surround Plaza Mayor, where three course meals run about ‚8. Champion, C. Toro 64, has a supermarket. (Open M-Sa 9:15am-9:15pm.)

El Patio Chico, C. Melendez 13 ( 923 26 51 03). Crowded at lunch and dinner, but the large and delicious portions are worth the wait. Menu ‚11. Entrees ‚4-8. Bocaditlos ‚2-3. Open daily l-4pm and 8pm-midnight.

Meson Las Conchas, R. Mayor 16 (923 21 21 67). The quintessential bar espanol. Menu ‚11. Raciones ‚6-14. Open daily l-4pm and 8pm-midnight. MCV.

La Fabrica, C. Libreros 47 and 49 (923 26 85 69), directly across from the University’s library. With wooden floors and 80s music, La Fabrica is popular among students. Menu ‚8.50, bocadillos ‚3-6. Open M-F 9am-2am, Sa-Su 9am-4am.

Restaurante El Bardo, C. Compama 8 (923 21 90 89), between the Casa de Conchas and the Clerecla. Traditional Spanish food and low prices keep the tiled tables full. Menu ‚9. Entrees ‚6-13. Open daily l:30-4pm and 9-11:30pm. MCV.

Restaurante Isidro, Pozo Amarillo 19 (923 26 28 48), a block from Plaza Mayor. Prompt, courteous service and large portions. Menu ‚8.40. Entrees ‚3-9. Open daily 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight. MCV.

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