In Trogir (pop. 1,500), made up of tiny Trogir Island and Ciovo Island, medieval buildings crowd into winding streets and palmed promenades open onto well-maintained parks and the calm, blue sea. On Trogir Island, the beautiful Renaissance North Gate forms the entrance to Stari Grad (Old Town), which earned a coveted place on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997. Most sights, including the Cathedral of St. Lawrence (Crkva sv. Lovre), are in Trg Ivana Pavla, the central square. The City Museum of Trogir, which is housed in two buildings, contains many examples of Trogir’s storied stone-carving tradition. The lapidary, through the arch directly in front of the North Gate, features stone sculpture. (Open M-Sa 9am-noon and 6-9pm. lOkn, students 5kn.) The other part of the museum is in the convent of St. Nicholas, off Kohl-Genscher past Trg Ivana Pavla. (Open M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 3-7:30pm.) At the tip of the island lie the remains of the Fortress of Kamerlengo, which now serves as an open-air cinema. (Open M-Sa 9am-llpm. lOkn. Students free. Movies 20kn.) Trogir’s best beaches lie on Ciovo Island, accessible from Trogir Island by the Ciovski bridge, past Trg Ivana Pavla.

Buses from Zagreb stop in front of the station on the mainland on their way south to Split (30min. 2-3 per hr. 22kn). Local bus #37 also runs from Trogir to Split (30min. 2-3 per hr. 18kn). Across Ciovski bridge, Atlas, Obala kralja Zvonimira 10, has bus schedules. (a 88 42 79. Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 8am-noon.) The tourist office, Trg Ivana Pavla 2, gives out free maps of the city. (a 88 14 12. Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 8-noon.) Cipko O, Gradska 41, across from the cathedral and through an archway, arranges private rooms, (a 88 15 54. Open daily 8am-8pm. July-Aug. singles 84-92kn; tourist tax 7.50kn. May-June and Sept. 70-735.50kn.) To reach beachside PrenociSte Saldun O, Sv. Andrije 1, cross Ciovski bridge and take Put Bal-ana up the hill, keeping right; Saldun is at the top. (a 80 60 53. Call ahead. Singles 76kn; tax 6kn.) Luxurious waterfront Vila Sikaa , Obala Kralja Zvonimira 13, is across Ciovski Bridge, (a 88 12 23; Call ahead. Singles 420-470kn; doubles 450-600kn.) Bistro Lucica , Kralja Tomislava, across Ciovski bridge and to the right, grills delightful meat and seafood. (35-120kn. Open M-F gam-midnight, Sa-Su 4pm-midnight.) Ciovka supermarket is next to Atlas. (Open M-Sa 5:30am-9pm, Su 6:30am-8pm.) Cafes line Kohl-Genscher. Postal Code: 21220.

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