Castello is arguably the most beautiful part of Venice, and, as it houses the largest number of Venetians, also the most authentic. A room on the second or third floor with a view of red rooftops and the sculpted skyline is worth the inevitability of getting lost in some of the most narrow and tightly clustered streets in the city.
Foresteria Valdese, Castello 5170 (041 528 67 97; www.diaconiavaldese. Orgvene- zia). From Campo S.
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Maria Formosa, take Calle Lunga S. Marial; it's immediately over the 1st bridge. Frescoed ceilings ornament the 18th-century Palazzo Cavagnis, a guest house of Venice's largest Protestant church. Reception daily 9am-lpm and 6-8pm. Lockout lOam-lpm. Closed 3 weeks in Nov. Dorms ‚21; doubles ‚56, with bath ‚74; quads with bath ‚102. ‚1 Rolling Venice discount. MCV.
La Residenza, Campo Bandiera e Moro Castello 3608 (041 528 53 15; www. Ven- icelaresidenza. Com). From vaporetto: Arsenal, turn left on Riva degli Schiavoni and right on C. Del Dose into the campo. Luxurious hotel with palatial lobby. Singles ‚60-95; doubles ‚100-155. MCV.
Antica Locanda Casa Verardo, Castello 4765 (041 528 61 27; www.casaverardo. It). From the Basilica, take C. Canonica, turn right before the bridge and left over the bridge on Ruga Giuffa into S. Filippo e Giacomo. Follow C. Della Chiesa left out of the campo until reaching a bridge. Hotel is on the other side. Richly colored rooms in a 15th-century palazzo. Singles without AC ‚60-75; doubles ‚80-165. AmExMCV.
Hotel Bruno, Salizzada S. Lio, Castello 5726A (a041 523 04 52; www. Hoteldab- runo. It). From Campo S. Bartolomeo, take Salizzada S. Lio, crossing the bridge. High- ceilinged, beautiful rooms all have bath and AC. Breakfast included. Singles ‚60-160; doubles ‚90-210; triples ‚120-260. MCV.
Locanda Silva, Fondamenta del Rimedio Castello 4423 (041 522 76 43; alber- gosilva@libero. It). From P.S. Marco, walk under the clock tower, turn right on Calle Larga S. Marco, left on Calle del Angelo before the bridge, right on Calle Rimedio before next bridge; follow it to the end. Lime-green rooms with 50s decor. Open Feb. To mid-Nov. Singles ‚40, with bath ‚60; doubles ‚70-8090-105; triples ‚120-140; quads ‚140- 170. Cash only.
Spartan facades and still canals trace the quiet, wide streets of Dorsoduro. Here, art museums draw visitors to canal-front real estate, while the interior remains a little-visited residential quarter. Situated near the Grand Canal between Chiesa dei Frari and Ponte Accademia, most hotels here tend to be pricey.
Hotel Galleria, Rio Terra Antonio Foscarini, Dorsoduro 878A (041 523 24 89; www.hotelgalleria. It), on the left facing the Accademia museum. Oriental rugs and art prints lend an elegance appropriate to its location on the Grand Canal. Breakfast in bed included. Singles ‚70; doubles without bath ‚95-145. AmExMCV.
Locanda Ca Foscari, Calle della Frescada, Dorsoduro 3887b (041 71 04 01; valtersc@tin. It), in a quiet neighborhood. From vaporetto: San Toma, turn left at the dead end, cross the bridge, turn right, then turn left on the alley. Murano glass chandeliers and a private garden embellish this simple, family-run hotel. Closed end of Nov. - Jan. 1. Singles ‚60; doubles ‚70-90; triples ‚87-110; quads ‚108-130. MCV.
Hotel agli Alboretti, Accademia 884 (041 523 00 58; www.aglialboretti. Com). From Accademia vaporetto, turn left off the landing, then right along the avenue. Typical old- style Venetian house, now renovated. All rooms have bath and TV. Singles ‚104; doubles ‚150-180; triples ‚210. AmExMCV.