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L’EIXAMPLE

Hostal Residencia Oliva, Pg. de Gracia 32, 4th fl. (934 88 01 62 or 934 88 17 89; www.lasguias.comhostaloliva). M: Pg. de Gracia. Elegant wood-worked bureaus, mirrors, ceilings, and a light marble floor give this hostel a classy ambience. Singles ‚26; doubles ‚48, with bath ‚55; triple with bath ‚78.

Pension Fani, Valencia 278 (932 15 36 45). M: Catalunya. Oozes quirky charm. Rooms rented by month; single nights also available. Singles ‚280 per month; doubles ‚500 per month; triples ‚780 per month. One-night stay ‚20 per person.

B8 Hostal Eden, C. Balmes 55 (934 52 66 20; http:hostaleden.net). M: Pg. Gracia. Modern rooms are equipped with TVs and fans; most have big, new bathrooms. May-Oct. singles ‚29, with bath ‚39; doubles ‚3960. Nov.-Apr. singles ‚2332; doubles ‚2945. AmExMCV.

Hostal Que Tal, C. Mallorca 290 (fax 934 59 23 66; www.quetalbarcelona.com), near C. Bruc. M: Pg. Gracia or Verdaguer. This quality gay-and-lesbian friendly hostel has one of the best interiors in the city. Singles ‚39; doubles ‚58, with bath ‚78. Hostal San Remo, C. Bruc 20 ( 933 02 19 89; www.hostalsanremo.com). M: Urquina-ona. All rooms have TV, AC, and soundproof windows. Reserve early. Singles ‚30; doubles ‚42, with bath ‚55. Nov. and Jan.-Feb. reduced prices. MCV.

Pension Aribau, C. Aribau 37 (fax 934 53 11 06). M: Pg. de Gracia. All rooms with TV, most with AC. Reservations recommended. Singles ‚36; doubles ‚45, with bath ‚60; triples with bath ‚70. Off-season reduced prices. AmExMCV.

Hostal Residencia Windsor, Rambla de Catalunya 84 (932 15 11 98). M: Pg. de Gracia. Rooms come equipped with comfy sleep sofas and heat in winter. Singles ‚25, with bath ‚42; doubles ‚5260. Extra beds ‚10.

GRACIA

Hostal Lesseps, C. Gran de Gracia 239 (932 18 44 34). M: Lesseps. Spacious, classy rooms sport red velvet wallpaper. All 16 rooms have TV and bath; 4 have AC (‚5.60 extra). Singles ‚38; doubles ‚60; triples ‚75; quads ‚90. MCV.

Pension San Medin, C. Gran de Gracia 125 (932 17 30 68; www.sanmedin.com). M: Fontana. Embroidered curtains and ornate tiling adorn this family-run pension. Common room with TV. Singles ‚30, with bath ‚39; doubles ‚4860. MCV.

Albergue Mare de Deu de Montserrat (HI), Pg. Mare de Deu de! Coll 41-51 (932 10 51 51; www.tujuca.com). This gorgeous 220-bed hostel is a great way to meet other backpackers. Breakfast included. Flexible 3-day max. stay. Dorms ‚18, under-26 ‚14. Members only. AmExMCV. O

CAMPING

El Toro Bravo, Autovia de Castelldefells km 11 (936 37 34 62; www.eltorobravo.com). Offers beach access, laundry facilities, currency exchange, 3 pools, 2 bars, a restaurant, and a supermarket. Reception 8am-7pm. Electricity ‚4. Open Sept.-June 14. ‚5 per person, ‚5 per site, ‚5 per car. AmExMCV. O

FOOD

The Guia del Ocio (available at newsstands; www.guiadelociobcn.es; ‚1) is an invaluable source of culinary suggestions. Port Veil and Port Olimpic are known for seafood. The restaurants on Calle Arago by Pg. Gracia have great lunchtime menus, and the Passeig de Gracia has beautiful outdoor dining. Gracia’s Pla?a Sol and La Ribera’s Santa Maria del Mar are the best places to head for tapas. If you want to live cheap and do as the Barcelonese do, buy your food fresh at a mercat (marketplace). For wholesale fruit, cheese, and wine, head to La Boqueria (Mercat de Sant Josep), outside M: Liceu. For groceries, try Champion Supermarket, Las Ramblas 11. (M: Liceu. Open M-Sa lOam-lOpm.)

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