ZURICH ZURICH

ZURICH (ZURICH)

Battalions of briefcase-toting executives charge daily through the world’s largest gold exchange and fourth-largest stock exchange, pumping enough money into the economy to keep Zurich’s upper-crust boutiques thriving. Once the focal point of the Reformation in German Switzerland, 20th-century Zurich (pop. 363,000) enjoyed an avant-garde radicalism that attracted progressive thinkers; while James Joyce wrote Ulysses in one corner of the city, an exiled Vladimir Lenin read Marx and dreamt of revolution in another. A walk through Zurich’s student quarter immerses you in the energetic counter-culture that encouraged such thinkers, only footsteps away from the deep capitalism of the Bahnhofstr. shopping district.

TRANSPORTATION

Flights: Kloten Airport (816 25 00) is a major stop for Swiss International Airlines (S’084 885 20 00). Daily connections to Frankfurt, Paris, London, and New York. Trains connect the airport to the Hauptbahnhof in the city center (every 10-20min. Sam-mid-night, 5.40SFr; Eurail and SwissPass valid).

Trains: Bahnhofpl. To: Basel (lhr. 1-2 per hr. 30SFr); Bern (lVihr. 1-2 per hr. 45SFr); Geneva via Bern (3hr. every hr. 6am-10pm, 76SFr); Lucerne (lhr. 2 per hr. 6am-mid-night, 20SFr); Milan (4hr. every hr. 6:30am-10pm, 72SFr); Munich (5hr. every hour 6am-10pm, 86SFr); Paris (5hr. every hour 6:30am-midnight, 133SFr); Salzburg (5hr. every hour 6am-7pm, 97SFr); Vienna (9hr. every hour 6am-6pm, 124SFr). Under-26 discount on international trains.

Public Transportation: Trams criss-cross the city, originating at the Hauptbahnhof. Tickets for rides longer than 5 stops cost 3.60SFr and are valid for one hour (press the blue button on automatic ticket machines); rides less than 5 cost 2.lOSFr (yellow button). Policemen won’t hesitate to fine you (60SFr) if you try to be a Schwarzfahrer (Black Rider) and ride for free. If you plan to ride several times, buy a 24hr. Tageskarte (7.20SFr), which is valid on trams, buses, and ferries. Night buses run from city center to outlying areas (F-Su lam-4am).

Taxis: Hail a cab or call 777 77 77, 444 44 44, or 222 22 22.

Car Rental: As a rule, try to rent in the city, as renting at the airport involves a 40% tax. The tourist office maintains a special deal with Europcar (804 46 46; www.europ-car.ch) involving a free upgrade to a nicer car. Prices start at 149SFr for 1-2 days. Minimum age 20. Branches at the airport (s813 20 44; fax 813 49 00), Josefstr. 53 (271 56 56), and Lindenstr. 33 (383 17 47).

Bike Rental: Bike loans are free at Globus (s079 336 36 10); Enge (079 336 36 12); and Hauptbahnhof (210 13 88), at the very end of track 18. With passport and 20SFr deposit, same day return. Open daily May-Oct 7:00am-9:30pm.

Hitchhiking: Hitchhiking is illegal on highways. Hitchhikers to Basel, Geneva, or Paris often take tram #4 to Werdhdlzli or bus #33 to Pfingstweidstr. Those bound for Lucerne, Italy, and Austria report taking tram #9 or 14 to Bahnhof Wiedikon and walking down Schimmelstr. to Silholzli. For Munich, hitchhikers have been seen taking SI or S8 to Wiedikon and getting picked up at Seebahnstr. Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking as a safe means of transport.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Zurich is in north-central Switzerland, close to the German border, on some of the lowest land in the country. The Limmat River splits the city down the middle on its way to the Ziirichsee. On the west side of the river are the Hauptbahnhof and Bah-nhofstrafie. Two-thirds of the way down Bahnhofstr. lies Paradeplatz, the town center. On the east side of the river is the University district, which stretches above the narrow NiederdorfstraBe and pulses with bars, hip restaurants, and hostels.

Tourist Offices: Main office (215 40 00; free reservation service215 40 40), in the main train station. An electronic hotel reservation board is at the front of the station. Open April-Oct. M-Sa 8am-8:30pm, Su 8:30am-6:30pm; Nov.-Mar. M-Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 9am-6:30pm. For bikers and backpackers, the Touring Club der Schweiz (TCS), Alfred-Escher-Str. 38 (286 86 86), offers maps and travel info.

Currency Exchange: At the main train station. Cash advances with DCMCV and photo ID; 200SFr minimum. Open daily 6:30am-10pm. Credit Suisse, Bahnhofstr. 53. 2.50SFr commission. Open daily 6am-10pm.

Luggage Storage: At the station one level below ground. Lockers 5-8SFr per day; 72hr. maximum. Luggage watch 7SFr at the Gepack counter. Open daily 6am-10:50pm.

Libraries: Zentralbibllothek, Zahringerpl. 6 (268 31 00). Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 8am-4pm. Pestalozzi Bibliothek, Zahringerstr. 17 (261 78 11), has foreign magazines and newspapers. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-4pm. Internet ISFr per lOmin.

Bi-Gay-Lesbian Organizations: Homosexuelle Arbeitsgruppe Zurich (HAZ), Sihlquai 67 (271 22 50; www.haz.ch), offers a library, meetings, and the free newsletter InfoS-chwul. Open Su noon-2pm and 6-llpm,Tu-F 7:30-llpm.

Laundromat: Speed Wash Self Service Wascherei, Weinbergstr. 37 (242 99 14). Wash and dry 10.20SFr per 5kg. Open M-Sa 7am-10pm, Su 10:30am-10pm.

Public Showers and Toilets: McClean Toiletten, at the train station. Toilets l-2SFr. Showers 12SFr for 20min. including 2 towels and shower gel. Open 6am-midnight. Clean enough to eat off the floor, though Let’s Go does not recommend doing so.

Emergencies: Police, 117. Fire, s 118. Ambulance, 144.

24-Hour Pharmacy: Bahnhofpl. 15 at the main station (225 42 42).

Internet Access: The ETH Library, Ramistr. 101 (631 21 35), in the Hauptgebaude, has three free computers. Take tram #6, 9, or 10 to ETH, enter the main building, and take the elevator to floor H. Open M-F 8:30am-9pm, Sa 9am-2pm. Quanta Virtual Fun Space, Limmatquai 94 (260 72 66), at the corner of Muehleg. and Niederdorfstr. Open daily 9am-midnight. Internet Cafe, Uraniastr. 3, (210 33 11) in the Urania Parkhaus. 5SFr per20min. Open M-Sa 9am-midnight, Su 1 lam-1 lpm. Telefon Corner, downstairs in the station. 6SFr per hr. Open daily 8am-10pm.

Post Office: Main office, Sihlpost, Kasernestr. 97, just behind the station. Open M-F 6:30am-10:30pm, Sa 6am-8pm, Su llam-10:30pm. Address mail to be held: First-name, LASTNAME, Sihlpost, Postlagernde Briefe, CH-8021 Zurich, SWITZERLAND.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The few budget accommodations in Zurich are easily accessible via public transportation. Reserve at least a day in advance, especially in the summer.

Martahaus, Zahringerstr. 36 (251 45 50). Three walls and a thick curtain separate you from your neighbors, often American college students. Breakfast and Internet access included. Reception 24hr. Dorms 38SFr. Singles in summer 85SFr, off-season 114SFr; doubles 98 135SFr; quads 200SFr. With private bath add 30-60SFr. AmEx DCMCV. The owners also run the nearby Luther pension, a women-only residence that shares reception. Dorms 30SFr, singles 50SFr.

Hotel Foyer Hottingen, Hottingenstr. 31 (256 19 19). Take tram #3 (dir.: Kluspl.) to Hottingenpl. Families and backpackers fill this renovated house, a block from the Kun-sthaus. In-house chapel. Women-only and mixed dorms. Breakfast, lockers, and kitchen included. Reception daily 7am-llpm. Dorms 35SFr; singles 70SFr, with bath 105SFr; doubles 110150SFr; triples 140190SFr; quads 180SFr. MCV.

Justinus Heim Zurich, Freudenbergstr. 146 ( 361 38 06; justinuszh@bluewin.ch). Take tram #9 to Seilbahn Rigiblick, then take the funicular. Quiet, private rooms. Breakfast included. Reception daily 8am-noon and 5-9pm. Singles 35-50SFr, with shower 60SFr; doubles 80-100SFr; triples 120-140SFr; rates reduced for long stays.

The City Backpacker-Hotel Biber, Niederdorfstr. 5 (251 90 15). With the Niederdorf nightlife outside, you may not even need to use your bunk-bed. Lockers available; bring a lock. Sheets 3SFr. Internet access 12SFr per hr. Reception daily 8am-noon and 3-10pm. Checkout 10am. Dorms 29SFr; singles 66SFr; doubles 88-92SFr. MCV. Hotel Otter, Oberdorfstr. 7 ( 251 22 07), and the swanky Wuste Bar below attract not-so-starving-artists. Shared bathrooms. Breakfast included. Reception daily 8am-4pm in hotel, 4pm-midnight in bar. Laundry 15 SFr. Rooms have TV, phone, fridge, and sink. Singles lOOSFr; doubles 130-160SFr. AmExMCV.

Jugendherberge Zurich (HI), Mutschellenstr. 114 ( 482 35 44). Take tram #7 to Mor-gental and walk back 5min. past the Migros. Beer on tap; 24-hour snack bar. Breakfast included. Buffet lunch and dinner 13SFr. Internet access ISFr per 4min. Reception 24hr. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 10am. Dorms 38SFr; singles with bath 58SFr; doubles with bath 99SFr. Nonmembers add 6SFr. AmExMCV.

Zic-Zac Rock-Hotel, Marktg. 17 (261 21 81). Each room in this hostel is named after a band, with a slant towards Elvis. Rooms have TV, phone, and sink. Reception 24hr. Singles 75SFr, with shower 90SFr; doubles 120-135160SFr; triples 156 168SFr; quads with shower 260SFr. 10% ISIC discount. AmExDCMCV.

Leoneck Hotel, Leonhardstr. 1 (254 22 22). Bovine-themed rooms above the Crazy Cow restaurant. Serves families and business-people. Rooms include bath, phone, and TV. Currency exchange available. Reception 24hr. Singles 100-140SFr; doubles 150-185SFr; triples 185-240SFr; quads 240-290SFr. AmExDCMCV.

Goldenes Schwertz, Marktg. 14 (266 18 18). Above two gay-friendly discos (free cover if you’re staying in the hotel). Breakfast (15SFr) served in-room. Attentive English-speaking staff. Reception 6:30am-llpm. Checkout noon. Singles 130-150; doubles 155-235. AmExDCMCV.

FOOD

Zurich’s over 1300 restaurants run the gamut. The cheapest meals are available at Wurstli stands for about 5SFr. For heartier appetites, Zurich prides itself on Geschnetzeltes mit Rosti, thinly-sliced veal (often liver or kidney) in cream sauce with hash-brown potatoes. Check out the Swiss Backpacker News (found at the tourist office, Hotel Biber, and Martahaus) for info on budget meals in Zurich. The farmer’s markets at Burklipl. (Tu and F 6am-llam) and Rosenhof (Th 10am-8pm and Sa 10am-5pm) sell fruit, flowers, and veggies.

El Bodega Espaiiola, Miinsterg. 15. Catalan delights served by charismatic waiters since 1874. Egg-and-potato tortilla dishes 15.50SFr. Yummy tapas 4.80SFr. Kitchen open noon-2pm and 6-10pm. Open daily lOam-midnight. AmExDCMCV. 0

IS Spriingli Confiserie Cafe, Paradepl. is a Zurich landmark, founded by one of the original Lindt chocolate makers. Women in matching red business suits assist customers in their quest for the perfect confection. Pick up a handful of the bite-size Luxemburgerli (8SFr per lOOg), try the homemade ice cream, or eat a full meal (20-26SFr). Confectionary open M-F 7:30am-8pm, Sa 8am-4pm. Cafe open M-F 7:30am-6:30pm, Sa 8am-6pm, Su 9:30am-5:30pm. AmExDCMCV.

Gran-Cafe, Limmatquai 66. Across from the rushing Limmat River. Think Great Gatsby. Save room for sundaes (6-8SFr). Open daily 7:30am-ll:30pm. AmExMCV.

Restaurant Mere Catherine, Nagelihof 8. Yuppie restaurant hidden on a small street near the Grofimiinster, in a building constructed in 1565. Serves mainly provengal French dishes (from 22SFr) and wine. Daily fish special from the Zurichsee. Open Su-W ll:30am-10pm, Th-Sa ll:30am-10:30pm. AmExDCMCV.

Restaurant Hiltl, Sihlstr. 28. Munch carrot sticks with the vegetarian elite. All-day salad buffet (3.90SFr per lOOg; 15SFr for large salad), and Indian buffet at night (same price). Open M-Sa 7am-llpm, Su 1 lam-1 lpm. AmExDCVMC.

Raclette Stube, Zahringerstr. 16. Family-oriented Swiss restaurant. All-you-can-eat raclette 33SFr per person. Open daily from 6pm to about 11pm.

Zahringer Cafe, Zahringerpl. 11. Sip coffee, tea, or Italian soda with a young crowd and fill your stomach with stir-fry (from 16SFr). Open M 6pm-midnight, Tu-Th and Su Sam-midnight, F-Sa 8am-12:30am. 0

Outback Lodge, Stadelhoferstr. 18. Foster’s beer on tap (4.20SFr), crocodile dishes (35SFr), and a generally Aussie atmosphere. 18+ after 6pm. Open M-F 9am-midnight, Sa-Su ll:30am-2am. AmExVMC.

SIGHTS

It’s virtually inconceivable to start a tour of Zurich anywhere but the stately Bah-nhofstrafie. This famous causeway of capitalism bustles with shoppers during the day but falls dead quiet at 6pm. At the Zurichsee end of Bahnhofstr. Biirkliplatz is a good place to explore the lake shore. The Platz itself hosts a colorful Saturday flea market (May-Oct. 6am-3pm). On the other side of the river, the pedestrian zone continues on Niederdorfstr. and Mtinsterg. where shops run from the ritzy to the raunchy. Off of Niederdorfstr. Spiegelgasse was once home to Goethe, Buchner, and Lenin. Fraumiinster, Grossmiinster, and St. Peterskirche straddle the Limmat.

FRAUMIINSTER. This 13th-century cathedral’s Gothic style is juxtaposed with Marc Chagall’s stained-glass windows, which depict stories from the Old and New Testament. Outside the church on Fraumiinsterstr. a mural decorating the courtyard’s archway pictures Felix and Regula the decapitated patron saints of Zurich with their heads in their hands. (Right off Paradepl. Open daily May-Sept. 9am-6pm; Oct. and Mar.-Apr. 10am-5pm; Nov.-Feb. lOamrApm.)

GROSSMUNSTER. The twin Neo-Gothic towers of this mainly Romanesque church can best be viewed on the bridge near the Fraumiinster. Considered the mother church of the Swiss-German Reformation, it has become a symbol of Zurich. Below the windows, one of Ulrich Zwingli’s Bibles lies in a protected case near his pulpit. Downstairs in the 12th-century crypt are the forbidding statue of Charlemagne and his 2m-long sword. The towers are a great way to orient yourself to the city. (Church open daily Mar. 15-Oct. daily 9am-6pm; Nov.-Mar. 14 10am-5pm. Tower open Mar.-Oct. daily l:30-5pm; Nov.-Feb. Sa-Su 9:15am-5pm. Tower 2SFr.)

ST. PETERSKIRCHE. St. Peterskirche has the largest clock face in Europe. (Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-4pm, Su 10-1 lam.) Excavated Roman baths dating from the first century are visible beneath the iron stairway. (Down Thermeng. from St. Peter’s.)

GARDENS AND PARKS. The lush, picnic-perfect Rieter-Park, overlooking the city, creates a romantic backdrop for the Museum Rietberg. (Take tram #7 to Museum Rietberg and walk in the same direction to Sternenstr. Turn right and follow the signs to the museum. Free.) The Stadtgartnerei attracts botanists and ornithologists to the aviary, which has artificial streams running through it. The aviary houses 17 species of tropical birds, which whiz freely around the building. (Sackzeig. 25-27.

SKUNSTHAUS ZURICH. The Kunsthaus, the largest privately-funded museum in Europe, houses a collection ranging from 21st century American pop art to religious pieces by the Old Masters. Works by Dali, van Gogh, Gaughin, Picasso, Rubens, Rembrandt, Renoir, and the largest Munch collection outside of Norway highlight a museum that, by itself, is a compelling reason to come to Zurich. The collection is continually expanding: a new wing devoted to Alberto Giacometti opened in May 2002. Future highlights include landscapes by legendary Swiss artist Hodler (Mar.-June 2004) and a contemporary project by Urs Fischer. Renovations from Feb.-Aug. 2004 may reduce the number of works on display. (Heimpl. 1. Take tram #3, 5,8, or 9 to Kunsthaus. -a253 84 84; www.kunsthaus.ch. English audio tours and brochures. Bag storage required. Open Su and F-Sa 10am-5pm, Tu-Th 10am-9pm. Admission 12SFr. Students and seniors 6SFr. W free. Free tours W 6:30pm and Sa 3pm.)

MUSEUM RIETBERG. In contrast to the Kunsthaus, Rietberg presents an exquisite collection of Asian, African, and other non-European art, housed in two spectacular mansions in the Rieter-Park. Park-Villa Rieter features internationally acclaimed exhibits of Chinese, Japanese, and Indian paintings; Villa Wesendonck stores most of the permanent sculpture collection. Renovations will close Park-Villa Rieter from spring 2004-2006, while Villa Wesendonck will remain open. (Gablerstr. 15. Take tram #7 to Museum Rietberg. Villa Wesendonck open Su and Tu-Sa 10am-5pm. Audio guide 5SFr. Park-Villa Rieter open Su 10am-5pm, Tu-Sa l-5pm. 6SFr, students 3SFr.)

SCHWEIZERISCHES LANDESMUSEUM. In a castle next to the Hauptbahnhof, the Landesmuseum provides fascinating insights into Swiss history. Among the artifacts are 16th-century astrological instruments, Ulrich Zwingli’s weapons from the Battle of Kappel (1531) in which he died, and a tiny bejeweled clock with a golden skeleton morbidly indicating the hour. (Open Su and Tu-Sa 10:30am-5pm. Entrance 5SFr, students and seniors 3SFr. Special exhibits 5-10SFr.)

ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE

Niederdorfstrafte is the epicenter of Zurich’s nightlife. Beware the night club it’s a euphemism for strip club. Because of these, women may not want to walk alone in this area at night. Other hot spots include Munsterg. and Limmatquai, both lined with overflowing cafes and bars. Beer in Zurich is pricey (from 6SFr), but a number of cheap bars have established themselves on Niederdorfstr. near Muhleg. Most movies (from 15SFr) are screened in English with German and French subtitles. After July 18, the Orange Cinema, an open-air cinema at Zurichhom (take tram #4 to Frohlichstr.) attracts huge crowds to its lakefront screenings. Every August, the Street Parade brings together ravers from all over the world for a giant techno party. For more nightlife info, check ZuriTipp (www.zueritipp.ch) or the posters that decorate the streets and cinemas at Bellevuepl. or Hirschenpl.

Double-U (W) Bar, Niederdorfstr. 21, on the 1st floor of Hotel Schafli. Popular with locals and students. Beer (from lOSFr) and mixed drinks (from 14SFr) rise 2SFr in price after midnight. Open Su-F 4pm-2am, Sa 4pm-4am. AmExDCVMC.

Nachtflug Bar, Cafe, and Lounge, Stuessihofstatt 4 (sOl 261 99 66), is a popular outdoor bar where laid-back locals mix with backpackers. Occasional live music. Serves wine (from 7SFr), beer (from 4.90SFr), mixed drinks (12-16SFr), as well as cold tapas and fresh-squeezed juices (6SFr). Open M-Th 1 lam-mid-night, F-Sa llam-2am.

Oliver Twist, Rindermarkt 6, welcomes soccer fans, tourists, and ex-pats ready for an American brew in a pub atmosphere that’s only somewhat contrived. Beers from 6.50SFr. Wine from 5.50SFr. Pub grub noon-10pm. English breakfast (15.50SFr) available during major sporting events. Open M-Sa ll:30am-midnight.

Opfelchammer, Rindermarkt 12. This popular Swiss wine bar has low ceilings and wooden crossbeams covered with initials and messages from 200 years of merry-makers. Those who climb the rafters and drink a free glass of wine from the beams get to engrave their names on the furniture. If you decide to try it, be careful; it’s harder than it looks. Wine 3-5SFr. Open Tu-Sa llam-12:30am. Closed from mid-July to mid-August. AmExVMCDC.

Cranberry, Metzgerg. 3. Gay bar off Limmatquai with a fashionable crowd and a leather lounge upstairs. Mixed drinks 9-14SFr. Open Su-W 5pm-12:30am, Th-Sa 5pm-2am.

Barfusser, Spitalg. 14, off Zahringerpl. Europe’s oldest gay bar. Specializes in sushi during the day. Mixed drinks 14-17SFr. Wine 6-9SFr. Open M-W 11-lam, Th ll-2am, F-Sa ll-3am, Su 3pm-lam. AmExDCMCV.

STEIN AM RHEIN

The tiny medieval Altstadt of Stein am Rhein (pop.3,000) is postcard-perfect, with traditional Swiss architecture framed by hills and river. All the houses of the square date back to the 15th century, and are marked by detailed facade paintings depicting the animal or scene after which each house is named. The 12th-century establishment of the Kloster St. George first made Stein am Rhein prominent. You can reach the Benedictine monastery by heading up Chirchhofpl. from the Rathauspl. Less austere is the vibrant Festsaal, whose yellow-and-green-tiled floor is off-limits to feet. As lights are few and dim, try to go when it is bright outside for the best view of delicate paintings and engravings. ( 741 21 42. Open Mar.-Oct. Su and Tu-Sa 10am-5pm. 3SFr, students 1.50SFr.) The Rathaus, at the corner of Rhig. and Rathauspl. is more stately.

If crisply-made hotel beds have grown bland, consider making like Heidi and bedding down in an authentic Swiss barn. Started ten years ago to provide back-to-the-roots lodging for cost-conscious Swiss families on vacation, the Schlaf im Stroh (sleep in straw) program now involves 240 farms in rural northeastern Switzerland.

Though plots are as hygienic as everything else in Switzerland, bring bug spray and a jacket to ward off pre-dawn chill. Call ahead to tell the host about allergies you have (believe it or not, substantial accommodations can be made). Ammenities range from donkey rides to craft demonstrations, and the sunrises are riveting.

In the vicinity of Stein am Rhein, Let’s Go recommends the barn run by Frau Ullman, her son, Christian, and their amiable St. Bernard, leila, who tends the chicken coop.

Contact Frau Ullman through the Stein am Rhein tourist office. To get to her barn, ride the local train to Eschenz. Press the button to get off-the train won’t stop if you don’t. From the station, make a left; take the bike path and follow the signs. The stay includes a farmer’s breakfast’ with tea from the lindenberry tree and chocolate milk courtesy of the cows. Shower 2SFr. Guests 16+ 20SF; children

11-15 pay by their age; 10 and under lOSFr.) For other barns, check www.abenteuer-stroh.chen.

Trains connect Stein am Rhein to Konstanz (40min. every hr. 6:24am-midnight, lOSFr) via Kreuzlingen. Boats ( 634 08 88) depart for Schaffhausen (lWhr. 4 per day, 20SFr); Konstanz (2Mihr. 4 per day, 24SFr); and other Bodensee towns. The tourist office, Oberstadt. 3, lies on the other side of the Rathaus. ( 742 20 90. Open July-Aug. M-F 9:30am-noon and l:30-5pm, Sa 9:30am-noon and l:30-4pm, Su 10:30am-12:30pm.; Sept.-June M-F 9:30am-noon and l:30-5pm.) The family-oriented Jugendherberge (HI) is at Hemishoferstr. 87. From the train station, take the bus (#7349, dir.: Singen) to Strandbad and walk 5min. farther in the same direction. By foot, the hostel is an enjoyable 20min. stroll along the Rhein from town. ( 052 741 12 55. Breakfast, showers, and sheets included. Reception 8-10am and 5-10pm. Curfew 10:30pm; keys available. Open Mar.-Nov. Dorms 25SFr; doubles 60SFr; family rooms 30SFr per person. Nonmembers add 6SFr. AmExDC MCA’.) The waitresses at the Rothen Ochsen Wine Bar O, Rathauspl. 9, are dedicated to preserving the traditions of this wooden hall, built in 1466 the oldest public house in the town. Though full meals are not available, their regional soups, appetizers, and wines are sustenance enough. ( 741 23 28. Open Su 10:30am-6pm, Tu-Sa ll:30am-ll:30pm.) Postal Code: CH-8260.

GRAUBUNDEN

The largest, least populous, and highest of the Swiss cantons, Graubunden’s rugged gorges, fir forests, and eddying rivers give the region a wildness seldom found in ultra-civilized Switzerland. Visitors should plan their trips carefully, especially in ski season, when reservations are absolutely required. Beware: Almost everything shuts down in May and June.

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