Bergamo’s (pop. 110,000) two sections reflect its colorful history: while the citta alta (upper city) reveals its origins as a Venetian outpost, the citta bassa (lower city) is a modem metropolis packed with Neoclassical buildings. Via Pignolo, in the citta bassa, winds past a succession of handsome 16th- to 18th-century palaces. Turning left onto V.S. Tomaso and then right brings you to the Galleria dell’Accademia Carrara, which holds works by Breughel, van Dyck, Rubens, and Titian. (Open Apr.-Sept. Su and Tu-Sa lOam-lpm and 3- 6:45pm; Oct.-Mar. 9:30am-lpm and 2:30pm-5:45pm. ‚2.60.) From the Galleria, the cobbled Via Noca ascends to the medieval citta, alta through the 16th-century Porta S. Agostino. Stroll down V. Porta Dipinta to V. Gambito, which ends in Piazza Vecchia, an ensemble of medieval and Renaissance buildings flanked by restaurants and cafes at the heart of the citta alta. Head through the archway near P. Vecchia to P. del Duomo, and see the fresco-laden Cappella Colle- oni. (Open Apr.-Oct. daily 9am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm; Nov.-Feb. Su and Tu-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-4:30pm.) Immediately left of the Cappella Colleoni is the ilBasilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, a 12th-century basilica with an ornate Baroque interior and tapestries depicting Biblical scenes. (Open daily Apr.- Oct. 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-6pm; Nov.-Mar. reduced hours.) Climb the Torre Civ- ica (Civic Tower) for a marvelous view of Bergamo. (Open May to mid-Sept. Su-Th 10am-8pm, F-Sa lOam-lOpm; mid-Sept. to Apr. reduced hours. ‚1.)

The train station, bus station, and many budget hotels are in the citta bassa. Trains (lhr. every hr. ‚3.65) and buses (every 30min. ‚4.10) pull into P. Marconi from Milan. To get to the tourist office, V. Aquila Nera 2, in the citta alta, take bus #la to the top of the citta alta. (a 035 24 22 26; Open daily 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm.) To get from the train station to Ostello della Gioventdl Bergamo (HI) O, V.G. Ferraris 1, take bus #9 to Comozzi, then take bus #14 to Leonardo da Vinci and walk up the hill, (afax 035 36 17 24. Internet ‚5.20 per hr. Lockout 10am-2pm. Curfew midnight. Dorms ‚14. HI members only. MCV.) Locanda Caironi , V. Toretta 6B, off V. Gorgo Palazzo, is in a quiet residential neighborhood. Take bus #5 or 7 from V. Angelo Maj. (a 24 30 83. Singles ‚20; doubles ‚38. MCV.) The friendly, student-run Cooperativa Citta Alta O, has fast service and tasty cuisine, (a 035 21 85 68. Open daily noon- midnight.) Postal Code: 24122.

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