604 Columbus Ave. Boston; (617) 536-6204 Soul Cuisine at Its Finest, boasts
This is heavy, down-home food done up properly, according to a friend of Mine’s. You have to have the ribs, he advised; and, being originally from Baton Rouge, he clearly knew what he was talking about Bar-B-Qued Spareribs were a half-dozen or so meaty pork ribs in a sweet sauce, cooked so tender that the meat practically fell off. The dinner costs $10, but that includes two side dishes plus a plate of warm, fresh com bread.
Each of the dinners, ranging from $7 to $10, offers the same deal. The side dishes include collard greens, (very) sweet potatoes, black-eye peas, fre’sh-cut com, rice and gravy, mashed turnips, and other Dixie delicacies. All told, you get a very big meal.
For the truly adventurous, try the Soul Chitterlings ($10). Our Louisiana expert describes these as all the parts of a pig that you wouldn’t want to eat somehow cooked into a popular, traditional specialty. Pan-fried porgy, The Soul Fish, sells at market prices; but you can also have it in a sandwich version for $4.50. In fact, most of the dinner items can be had as sandwiches; from smothered steak and onions ($6) to fried chicken ($3.50). Add a side dish for $1.75 and you have a very cheap meal indeed.
Desserts are homemade and they all look great if you can fit one in after this kind of meal. Still, try to aim for the pecan pie, $2 for a good-sized slice; sweet potato pie is $1.75. Service is nice and fast, by the way. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
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