Lisbon has some of the best wine and least expensive restaurants of any European capital. Dinner costs about ‚10 per person; the prato do dia (daily special) is often only ‚5. Head to the Canada de Sant’Ana and Rua dos Correeiros to find small, authentic restaurants that cater to locals. The city’s culinary specialties include amejoas d bulhao pato (steamed clams), creme de mariscos (seafood chowder with tomatoes), and bacalhau cozido com grao e batatas (cod with chickpeas and boiled potatoes, doused in olive oil). Snack on surprisingly filling and incredibly cheap Portuguese pastries; pastelarias (pastry shops) are everywhere. For groceries, look for any Pingo Doce supermarket. (Most open M-Sa 8:30am-9pm.)
Lua da Mel, R. Prata 242, on the corner of R. Santa Justa. If it can be caramelized, this diner-style pastry shop has done it. Pastries ‚0.60-1. Try the house specialty Lua da Mel. They also serve affordable meals (‚7-9), and the daily specials are a great value (‚5-6). Open M-Sa 7am-midnight.
Restaurante Tripeiro, R. dos Correeiros 70A, serves some of the best Portuguese meals to be found on the lower streets of Baixa. Specializes in fish but also offers large portions of non-seafood dishes. Entrees ‚6-9. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7-10pm.
Martinho da Arcada, Pr. do Comercio 3, just outside the praga, to the far right with your back to the river. Founded in 1782, this is the oldest restaurant in Lisbon. Contains photos and poems of the restaurant’s most celebrated regular, the renowned Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa. Adjacent cafe has excellent lunch special. Entrees ‚11-15. Pratos do dia ‚4. Open M-Sa 7am-10pm. AmExMCV.
Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, R. de Belem 84-92. Since 1837, this pastry shop has served world-famous pasteis de Belem; only 3 people are privy to the secret recipe. Most pastries sold in one day: 52,000. Pasteis ‚0.80.
Churrasqueira 0 Cofre, R. dos Bacalhoeiros 2C-D, at the foot of the Alfama near Pensao Estreia. A display case at the entrance shows everything available for grilling. Entrees ‚6-11. Open daily 9am-midnight, meals noon-4pm and 7-ll:30pm. AmExMCV. Sul, R, do Norte 13. Dark-wood paneling, tree-trunk bar stools, and candlelight give this restaurant and wine bar a romantic feel. Food tastes as good as it looks. Converts to a bar at 10pm. International entrees ‚7.50-14. Open Su and Tu-Sa 7:30pm-midnight. Restaurante Calcuta, R. do Norte 17, near Lg. Camoes. Indian restaurant with wide selection of vegetarian entrees (‚5). Meat entrees ‚6.50-9. Fixed price menu ‚13. Open M-F noon-3pm and 7-1 lpm, Sa-Su 7-1 lpm. AmExMCV.
Restaurante Ali-a-Papa, R. da Atalaia 95. Serves generous helpings of traditional Moroccan food in a quiet atmosphere. Vegetarian options. Entrees ‚7.50-12. Open M-Sa 7-1 lpm. AmExMCV.
A Brasileira, R. Garrett 120-122. A former romping ground of early 20th century poets and intellectuals, the esplanade out front is a hot gathering spot day and night. Mixed drinks ‚5. Specialty is bife a brasileira (‚11). Open daily 8am-2am.
Casa das Sandes, R. da Vitoria 54, between R. dos Correeiros and R. Augusta. This restaurant’s baguette sandwiches are becoming a local tradition. Outdoor terrace seating. Large sandwich ‚3-5. Open daily lOam-lOpm.
Pastelaria Anunciada, Lg. da Anunciada 1-2, on the corner of R. de S. Jose, 2 blocks from Pr. dos Restauradores. Specialties include bacalhau a minhota (codfish; ‚7) and cozida a portuguesa (boiled carrots, meats, potatoes, and more; ‚5). Open daily 6:30am-10pm, serves meals noon-lOpm.
Restaurante Bomjardim, Tv. Santo Antao 10 and 11, off Pr. dos Restauradores. Self-pro-claimed Rei dos Frangos (king of chicken) and Rei da Brasa (king of the grill) rules the roost with its savory roast chicken (‚8.50) and other grilled meats (‚7-9). Open daily noon-11:30pm. AmExMCV.
0 Eurico, Lgo. de S. Cristovao 3-4, on C. do Marques de Tancos. Since 1969, this simple restaurant has served generous portions of grilled meats. Packed at lunchtime. Entrees ‚5-7. Open M-F 9am-10pm, meals noon-4pm and 7-10pm, Sa lunch only. Churrascaria Gaucha, R. Bacalhoeiros 26C-D, 1 block from the river toward Alfama, near Pr. do Comercio. South American-style churrasco (grilled meat) dishes. Entrees ‚7-10. Open M-Sa 9am-midnight. AmExMCV.
Trimar, Av. da Liberdade, just up from Pr. dos Restauradores, to your left with your back to the praga. Cafe occupying a little park. Outdoor seating amidst fountains, statues, and trees. Coffee ‚0.50-1.70. Sandwiches ‚1.80-3. Restaurant inside. Entrees ‚5.50-13. Open daily 8am-2am. AmExMCV.
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