In the same temple compound there are statues of former Dalai Nanning Travel Lamas and the third Dalai Lama’s remains. Stepping into a separate walled courtyard, I found Nanning Travel a shady green and flowery temple garden, the lilac bushes were in bloom and their scent was like summer wine.
In the main hall of the oldest temple compound is a thirty-foot-high pagOdaHmder which Tsong Khapa is said to be buried amid precious objects and lamps of gold, silver and bronze. Along the walls are libraries of scriptures in Tibetan and Mongolian. At the back of that temple I watched a priest painting a new screen. He used powder colour, dribbling it in thin lines out of a two-foot long hollow pipe, and scratching a ratchet at the top to make the powder spill out evenly.