PARMA
Every year from mid-June to mid-September, the city comune sponsors an entertainment festival of dance, theater, music, cinema, and art shows. Many events are free, but some cost around ‚5. Visitors to Bologna during the summer should contact the tourist office for a program of events. The Teatro Comunale, Largo Respighi 1, hosts operas, symphony concerts, and ballet with world-class performers. (a051 52 99 99; www.comunalebologna.it. Tickets ‚5-200. 10% surcharge for pre-order. Box office open M-F 3:30-7pm, Sa 9:30am-12:30pm and 3:30-7pm.)
Famous for its parmigiano cheese and prosciutto ham, Parma’s (pop.200,000) artistic excellence is not confined to the kitchen. 16th-century Mannerist painting came into full bloom here, and native Giuseppe Verdi resided in Parma while composing some of his greatest works. From P. Garibaldi, follow Strada Cavour toward the train station and take the third right on Strada al Duomo to reach the 11th-century Romanesque duomo, in P. del Duomo, which is filled with masterpieces. Most spectacular is the dome, where Correggio’s Virgin ascends to a golden heaven in a spiral of white robes, pink putti, and blue sky. The pink-and-white marble baptistery was built between the Romanesque and Gothic periods. (Duomo open daily 9am-noon and 3-7pm. Baptistery open daily 9am-12:30pm and 3-7pm. ‚2.70, students ‚1.50.) Behind the duomo is the frescoed dome of the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista, P.S. Giovanni, designed by Correggio. (Open M-Sa 8am-ll:45am and 3-6:45pm, Su 8am-12:45pm and 3- 7:45pm.) From P. del Duomo, follow Strada al Duomo across Strada Cavour, walk one block down Strada Piscane, and cross P. della Pace to reach the 17th- century Palazzo della Pilotta, an artistic treasure chest that houses the Galleria Nazionale. (Open Su and Tu-Sa 8:30am-2pm. ‚6, students ‚3.)
Parma is on the Bologna-Milan rail line. Trains go from P. Carlo Alberto della Chiesa to: Bologna (lhr. 2 per hr. ‚4.20); Florence (3hr. 7 per day, ‚15); and Milan (I’ahr. every hr. ‚7). Walk left from the station, turn right on V. Garibaldi, and turn left on V. Melloni to reach the tourist office, V. Melloni la (0521 21 88 89; fax 0521 23 47 35. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 9am-lpm.) From the station, take bus #9 (‚0.75) and get off when the bus turns left on V. Martiri della Liberia for the Ostello Cittadella (HI) O, on V. Passo Buole, in a comer of a 15th-century fortress with a campground beside it. (s’0521 96 14 34. 3-night max. stay. Lockout 9:30am-5pm. Curfew 11pm. Open Apr.- Oct. HI members only. Dorms ‚9. Camping ‚6.50 per person, ‚11 per site.) Albergo Leon d’Oro , V. Fratti 4, off V. Garibaldi, is clean and only two blocks from the train station. (0521 77 31 82. Singles ‚33; doubles ‚50. AmExMCV.) Look near Via Garibaldi for fragrant Parma cuisine. Pizzeria La Duchessa 0, P. Garibaldi 1B is an excellent trattoria with a large variety of pastas and thick-crust pizzas. ( 052123 59 62. Pizza ‚4.20-9.50. Primi ‚5.50-8. Secondi ‚6.50-15. Cover ‚1.30-1.55. Open Su and Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 7pm-12:30am. MCV.) K2, Borgo Cairo23, next to the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista, has great gelato. (Cones from ‚1.50. Open M-Tu and Th-Su 1 lam-midnight.) Dimeglio supermarket is at V. XXH Luglio 27c. (Open M-W and F-Sa 8:30am-lpm and 4:30-8pm, Th 8:30am-lpm.) Postal Code: 43100.
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