ENTERTAINMENT AND NIGHTLIFE
According to Salamantinos, Salamanca is the best place in Spain to party; it is said that there is one bar for every one hundred people living in the city. There are chupiterias (shot bars), barres, and discotecas on nearly every street, and while some close at 4am, others go all night. Nightlife centers on Plaza Mayor and spreads out to Gran Via, Calle Bordadores, and side streets. Calle Prior and Rua Mayor are also full of bars. Intense partying occurs off Calle Varillas.
E3 Bar La Chupiteria, PI. Monterrey, at the intersection of C. Prior and Bordadores. Serves inexpensive shots (‚0.90 each) and slightly larger chupitos (‚1 each).
Duende Bar, PI. San Juan Bautista 7. A typical bar de copas where Salamantino students begin their nights of partying. Litros of beer or sangria ‚3.
Birdland, C. Azafranal 57, facing PI. Espana. Drink to modern funk and jazz. Beer ‚1.50-2.40. Mixed drinks ‚3-6. Open in summer Su-Th 6:30pm-3am, F-Sa 6:30pm-4:30am; off-season Su-Th 4pm-3am, F-Sa 4pm-4:30am.
Gatsby, C. Bordadores 6. African masks and a disco beat draw visitors and locals alike. Beer ‚1.80. Sangria ‚2.10. Open Su-Th 10pm-4am, F-Sa 7pm-6:30am.
Cum Laude, C. Prior 5. On this bar’s dance floor, a replica of the Plaza Mayor, partying starts at 11pm and doesn’t stop until 4:30am. Mixed drinks ‚5-8.
Camelot, C. Bordadores 3. This monastery-turned-club shakes to techno beats. Mixed drinks from ‚3.
Trastevere, PI. Monterrey 8. A young, late-night spills in from nearby Bar La Chupiteria. Beer ‚4, Copas from ‚5. Open M-W 8pm-4am, Th 8pm-5am, F-Su 8pm-7am.
Dolce Via, Gran Via 48. Groove on Gran Via to Latin American salsa and pop in a Hollywood-themed disco. Beer ‚3. Mixed drinks from ‚5. Open daily 10pm-4:30am.
DAYTRIP FROM SALAMANCA: ZAMORA. Perched atop a rocky cliff over the Rio Duero, Zamora (pop. 70,000) is an intriguing mix of the modem and the medieval; 15th-century palaces harbor Internet cafes and luxury hotels. Zamora’s foremost monument is its Romanesque cathedral, built between the 12th and 15th centuries. Highlights include its intricately carved choir stalls (complete with seated apostles laughing and singing) and the main altar, an ornate structure of marble, gold, and silver. Inside the cloister, the Museo de la
BULLBOARDS Gazing out the window of your preferred mode of transportation, you may notice rather unusual monuments along the highway: massive black paper silhouettes of solitary bulls. Once upon a time (in the 1980s) these cutouts were advertisements for Osborne Sherry. In the early 1990s, however, billboards were prohibited on national roads. A plan was drafted to take the bulls down, but Spaniards protested, as the lone bull towering along the roadside had become an important national symbol. After considerable clamoring and hoofing, the bulls were painted black and left to loom proudly against the horizon. The familiar shape now decorates t-shirts and pins in souvenir shops, but the real thing is still impressive.
Catedrai features the priceless 15th-century Black Tapestries, which tell the story of Achilles’s defeat during the Trojan War. ( 980 53 06 44. Cathedral and museum open Su and Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 5-8pm. Mass daily at 10am, also Sa 6pm and Su 1pm. Cathedral free, museum ‚2.) All in all, twelve handsome Romanesque churches remain within the walls of the old city, gleaming in the wake of recent restoration. Most visitors follow the Romanesque Route, a self-guided tour of all of the churches available from the tourist office, 6 PI. Arias Gonzalo. (987 53 36 94. Open Apr.-Sept. daily 10am-2pm and 4-7pm, Oct.-Mar. 10am-2pm and 5-8pm.) The EMuseo de Semana Santa, in sleepy PI. Santa Maria La Nueva 9, is a rare find. Hooded mannequins stand guard over elaborately sculpted floats depicting the stations of the Via Crucis. (Open M-Sa 10am-2pm and 5-8pm, Su 10am-2pm. ‚2.70.) Linea Regular buses run from Avenida Alfonsa Pena to Salamanca, (lhr. 10-15 per day, ‚3.60.)
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