The Festival Roma-Europa in late summer brings a number of world-class acts to Rome (consult for more information), but for year-round performances of classic Italian theater, Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, is the grand matriarch of all Italian venues. (06 68 80 46 01. Box office open M-F 10am-2pm and 3-7pm, Sa 10am-2pm. Tickets around ‚10-26, depending on performance; students ‚10-21. AmExDMCV.) Teatro Colosseo, V. Capo d’Africa 5a, usually features work by foreign playwrights translated into Italian, but also hosts an English theater night. (06 700 49 32. M: B-Colosseo. Box office open Tu-Sa 6- 9:30pm. Tickets ‚10-20. Students ‚7.80. Closed in summer.)

Most English-language films are dubbed into Italian; check newspapers or Roma C’e for listings with a v.o. or l.o. These indicate that the film is in the original language. For a sure bet, pay a visit to II Pasquino, P. Sant-Egidio 10, off P.S. Maria in Trastevere. Three different screens show English films, and the program changes daily, (a 06 580 36 22. ‚6.20, students ‚4.20.) Also, Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi, 1 (06 581 81 16) is the famed Italian director Nanni Moretti’s theater and shows a host of independent films. (M and Tu films in the original language. Tickets ‚7, matinee and W ‚4.50.)


Founded by Palestrina in the 16th century, the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia remains the best in classical music performances. Concerts are held at the Parco della Musicain, V. Pietro di Coubertin, 30, ( 06 80 82 058; http:www.musicaper- near P. del Popolo. Box office open 9am-6pm. Regular season runs Oct.- June. ‚9, students ‚5. Alexanderplatz Jazz Club, V. Ostia 9, is the current residence of that je ne sais quoi that was expatriate life in Italy during the 50s. Read messages on the wall from old jazz greats, and be prepared to move outside during the summer to the Villa Celimontana. ( 06 39 74 21 71. M: A-Ottaviano, near the Vatican City. Required tessera ‚6.20. Open Sept.-June daily 9pm-2am. Shows start at 10pm.) The Cornetto Free Music Festival Roma Live attracts acts like Pink Floyd, The Cure, and the Backstreet Boys at a number of venues throughout the city during the summer. ( 06 592 21 00; Shows start at 9:30pm.)


While other spectator sports may exist in Rome, it’s calcio (soccer) that brings the scantily-clad fans and the large-scale riots that the world knows and loves. Rome has two teams in Italy’s Serie A: A.S. Roma and S.S. Lazio. Games are played at the Stadio Olimpico in the Foro Italico (M: A-Ottaviano to bus #32). Tifosi, as hardcore fans are called, arrive hours or sometimes days ahead of time for big games, to drink, sing, and taunt rivals. Tickets can be bought at the stadium box office, but are easier to obtain at the A.S. Roma Store, P. Coionna 360. (06 678 65 14; Open daily lOam-lOpm, tickets sold 10am- 6:30pm. Tickets start at ‚15.50. AmExMCV.) Italy is also one of the hosts to the 6 Nations Cup, Europe’s premier Rugby Union tournament. Visitors will find that despite rising interest, good seats are readily available from mid-February through March at the Flaminio Stadium (Metro A: Flaminio. Then take the #2 tram to the V. Tiziano stop. For more info visit

Everything you need to know about Italian fashion is summed up in one simple phrase: la bella figura. It describes a beautiful, well-dressed, put-together woman, and it is very, very important in Rome. Think whole picture: tinted sun-glasses, Ferragamo suit, Gucci pumps with six-inch heels, and, stuffed in your Prada bag, a telefonino with a signature ring. For men, a single gorgeous black suit will do the trick. If you’re not a Telecom heir or heiress, there are still ways to purchase grace and aplomb. Sales happen twice a year, in mid-January and mid- July, and a number of boutiques, while not as fashionable as their counterparts on the Via Condotti, won’t require the sale of a major organ, or even a minor one.


Designer emporiums such as David Cenci, V. Campo Marzio 1-7 (a 06 699 06 81; open M 4-8pm, Tu-F 9:30am-l:30pm and 4-8pm, Sa 10am-8pm); Antonelo & Fabrlzio, C.V. Emanuele 242-243 ( 06 68 80 27 49; open in summer daily 9:30am-l:30pm and 4-8pm; off-season 3:30-7:30pm); and Discount dell’alta Moda, V. Agostino Depretis 87 (06 47 82 56 72; open M 2:30-7:30pm, Tu-Sa 9:30am-7:30pm) stock many lines of designer clothes and shoes sometimes at half their normal prices.

Diesel, V.d. Corso 186 (06 678 39 33). Off V.d. Condotti. Also at V.d. Babuino 95. The label in retro fashion is surprisingly high-octane. Prices are cheaper than elsewhere in the world, so it’s worth the visit. Open M-Sa 10:30am-8pm, Su 3:30-8pm.

Mariotti Boutique, V.d. Frezza 20 (06 322 71 26). This elegant boutique sells clothes for the modern, sophisticated woman. Prices are steep; watch for the significant sales. Open M-F 10am-7:30pm, Sa 10am-2pm.

David Mayer, V.d. Corso 168 (06 69 20 20 97) and V. Cola di Rienzo 185 (06 324 33 03; For the inner fasionista in all men, David Mayer offers good-looking attire that doesn’t require a trust fund. Short-sleeved button-down shirt ‚45, sweaters ‚90, their popular shoes ‚120. Open daily 10am-8pm.

Ethic, V.d. Corso 85 (06 360 021 91) and V.d. Pantheon 46 ( 06 68 30 10 63), and V.d. Carozze, 20. The hip yet less adventurous can find a balance between the avant garde and tasteful. Prices won’t break the bank. Open daily 10am-7:30pm.

Max&Co, V.d. Condotti 46-46a (06 678 79 46) and V. Nazionale 56. The less expensive line of Max Mara, with more youthful, colorful clothes. Open M-Sa 10am-7:30pm.


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