Although Italian discos can be a flashy, sweaty good time, the scene changes as often as Roman phone numbers. Check Roma C’e or Time Out. Rome has fewer gay establishments than most cities its size, but those it has are solid and keep late hours. Many gay establishments require an ARCI-GAY pass (‚10 yearly), available from Circolo di Cultura Omosessuale Mario Mieli ( 06 541 39 85).

Chic and Kitsch, V.S. Saba 11a. Uniting the elegant with the eclectic; music (often House or a variant) is selected by resident DJ Giuliano Marchili. Cover: men ‚13, women ‚10 includes 1st drink. Open Sept.-July Th-Sa ll:30pm-4am.

Groove, V. Savelli 10. Look for the black door. Lose it to acid jazz, funk, soul, and disco. F-Sa 1-drink min. (‚5.16). Open W-Su 10pm-2am. Closed most of Aug.

Alien, V. Velletri 13-19. One of the biggest discos in Rome. As of this writing, the comfy chill-out room had not yet reached 1987. Cover varies (about ‚15, including a drink). Open Tu-Su llpm-5:30am. In summer, moves to Fregene.

Piper, V. Tagliamento 9. A popular club that occasionally hosts gay nights. 70s, rock, and disco, as well as house and underground. Gay friendly all the time. Cover ‚10-18, includes 1st drink. Open F-Sa llpm-4:30am; in summer Sa-Su llpm-4:30am.

Black Out, V. Saturnia 18. From the Colosseum, take V. Claudia (V.d. NavicellaV. Gallia) southeast; turn right on V. Saturnia. Punk and Britpop. Occasional bands. Cover ‚8 (includes 1 drink). Open Sept. to mid-June Th-Su llpm-4am.

II Giardini di Adone, V.d. Reti 38a. Off V.d. Sabelli. Though it fancies itself a spaghetti- pub, the happy students who frequent this little place would remind you that tables are properly used for dancing, not for eating linguine. Cover ‚6, includes 1st drink. Open Sept. to late July Su and Tu-Sa 8pm-3am.

Charro Cafe, V. di Monte Testaccio 73. So you wanted to go to Tijuana, but got stuck in Rome. Weep no more, mis amigos: make a run for Charro, home of the ‚2.60 tequila. Open daily midnight-3am.

Aquarela, V. di Monte Testaccio 64. You want pottery shards? You got pottery shards. A fine example of urban renewal, Roman-style. Entrance ‚10, includes 1st drink. Open Su and Tu-Sa 8:30pm-4am.

L’Alibi, V. di Monte Testaccio 4044. Traditionally a gay club, L’Alibi now draws a mixed crowd. Its two floors host drag queen shows and hip DJs alike. The roof garden, deco-rated with leopard prints, plays chill music and serves cocktails (‚8). Cover F-Sa CIS-

Coyote, V. di Monte Testaccio 48b. The newly-opened club sports a Tex-Mex look and caters to the homesick American tourist. Hosts Italian DJs. Its spacious terrace is a wel-come escape from the revelry inside. Open daily 9pm-4am.

Radio Londra Caffe, V. di Monte Testaccio 65b. Packed with an energetic, good-looking, young crowd. Pint of beer ‚4-5. Pizza, panini, and hamburgers ‚4.20-5.20. 1-year membership required (‚8; includes one free drink). Open M-Sa 9pm-3am.

Classico Village, V. Libetta 3. M: B-Garbatella. Exit onto V. Argonauti and take a left on V. Libetta. Women probably don’t want to travel alone in this area at night. One of the best-known centri sociali in Rome-your one-stop shop for all things countercultural. Hosts live music, films, art exhibits, poetry readings, African cuisine tastings, and more. Hours and cover vary (‚8-10).

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