Despite the tourists, an otherworldly quality shrouds the island of Monemvasia. No cars or bikes are allowed on the island, and pack horses bear residents’ groceries into the city. Narrow streets hide tiny doorways and flowered courtyards. At the edge of the cliffs perches the Agia Sofia, a 12th-century church; to get there, navigate the maze of streets to the inland edge of town, where a path climbs the side of the cliff to the tip of the rock. Stay in more modem and less expensive Gefyra, a 15min. walk down the main road and across the causeway from Monemvasia. An orange bus runs between the causeway and Monemva-sia’s gate (every 15min. 8am-midnight, ‚0.30). Three buses per day leave for: Athens (6hr. ‚20); Corinth (5hr. ‚15); Sparta (2V&hr. ‚6.80); and Tripoli (4hr. ‚11). iiHotel Akrogiali , Iouliou 23, has private baths, TVs, and a shared fridge. (27320 61 360. Singles ‚20-23; doubles ‚28-35.) BTo Limanaki O, in Gefyra, serves exceptional Greek food, including excellent pastitsio (‚4) and moussaka (‚5).

MONEMVASIA Photo Gallery

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