The transportation hub of Arcadia, Tripoli (pop. 22,000) is crowded and fast-paced; the plateias and huge city park are a break in the city’s otherwise urban landscape. The Archaeological Museum on Evangelistrias, Pl. Ag. Vasiliou, has a large prehistoric collection, including pottery, jewelry, and weaponry from the Neolithic to the Mycenaean periods. Trains arrive from: Athens (4hr. 3 per day, ‚6); Corinth (21fehr. 4 per day, ‚3); and Kalamata (2V4hr. 2 per day, ‚5). Buses arrive at Pl. Kolokotronis, east of the center of town, from Athens (3hr. 14 per day, ‚11) and Nafplion (lhr. 5 per day, ‚3.70). Buses arrive at the KTEL Messenia and Laconia depot, across from the train station, from Kalamata (l’4hr. 10 per day, ‚5.50) and Sparta (lhr. 8 per day, ‚3.70). Arcadia Hotel , in Pl. Kolokotronis, offers old-fashioned rooms with unique color schemes, AC, and private bath, (ra 2710 225 551. Singles ‚30-50; doubles ‚45-72; triples ‚80-85.) Try the goat with mushrooms in egg and lemon sauce (‚8.20) at ISKIimataria , on Eth. Antistasis, four blocks past the park as you walk from Pl. Petriou. (2710 222 058. Entrees ‚10-12.) Postal Code: 22100.

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