CUENCA

Cuenca (pop. 50,000) is a hilltop city flanked by two rivers and the stunning rock formations they created. The enchanting iiold city safeguards most of Cuenca’s unique charm, including the famed casas colgadas (hanging houses) that dangle high above the Rio Huecar, on C. Obispo Vaero off Plaza Mayor. Cross the San Pablo bridge to Hoz del Huecar for a spectacular view of the casas and cliffs. Many of the casas house museums; on PI. Ciudad de Ronda is the excellent Museo de Arte Abstracto Espanol. (Open Tu-F llam-2pm and 4-6pm, Sa llam-2pm and 4-8pm, Su llam-2pm. ‚3, students and seniors ‚1.50.) The perfectly square Cathedral de Cuenca sits in the Plaza Mayor. (Open daily 9am-2pm and 4-6pm. Free.)

Trains ( 902 24 02 02) run to Madrid (2!2-3hr. 5-6 per day, ‚9) and Valencia (3-4hr. 3-4 per day, ‚10). Buses (22 70 87) depart from C. Fermin Caballero for: Barcelona (9hr. 1-2 per day, ‚30); Madrid (212hr. 8-9 per day, ‚8.20-11); and Toledo (212hr. 3 per day, ‚10). To get to Plaza Mayor from either station take a left onto C. Fermin Caballero, following it as it becomes C. Cervantes and C. Jose Cobo and then bearing left through PI. Hispanidad. The tourist office is in Plaza Mayor, (23 21 19; www.aytocuenca.org. Open July-Sept. M-Sa 9am-9pm, Su 9am-2pm; Oct.-June M-Sa 9am-2pm and 4-6pm, Su 9am-2pm.) KPosada de San Jose , C. Julian Romero 4, a block up from the left side of the cathedral, has gorgeous views and a friendly staff. (21 13 00. July-Nov. and F-Sa year-round singles ‚20, with bath ‚41; doubles ‚3161; triples with sink ‚42; quads with bath ‚97. Semana Santa increased prices; off-season reduced prices.) To reach Pension Tabanqueta , C. Trabuco 13, head up C. San Pedro from the cathedral past PI. Trabuco. ( 21 12 90. Singles ‚12; doubles ‚24; triples ‚36.) Budget eateries line Calle Cervantes and Calle Republica Argentina. Grab groceries at %Dia, on Av. Castilla La Mancha and Av. Republica Argentina. (Open M-Th 9:30am-2pm and 5:30-8:30pm, F-Sa 9am-2:30pm and 5:30-9pm.) Postal Code: 16004.

CASTILLA Y LEON

Castilla y Leon’s cities rise like green oases from a desert of burnt sienna The aqueduct of Segovia, the majestic Gothic cathedrals of Burgos and Leon, the slender Romanesque belfries along Camino de Santiago, the sandstone of Salamanca, and the city walls of Avila have emblazoned themselves as regional and national images.

CUENCA

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