Eldo Tea House US Map & Phone & Address

57 Beach St. Boston; (617) 338-2128

This tiny, unadorned room has a huge and varied menu that crosses the borders of several continents. After all, in what other Chinese restaurant can you order Spam Ham and Egg Macaroni in Soup? Many of the more interesting dishes here are combinations of Chinese and American items, as well as cooking styles from elsewhere in the Orient.

Almost everything is very inexpensive, and you can have a great meal probably a healthy one, too even for around $5. Lots of the bargain dishes are the unusual soups in big, deep bowls, like watercress and pork for two ($3.75) or sliced beef with noodles ($3.25). The house special soup is stocked with shrimp, squid, broccoli, noodles, and a piece of fried pork in the center. At $3.75, it’s a meal all by itself.

Chinese spaghetti is another example of the cross-breeding here: Try it topped with sliced beef in tomato sauce ($3.95); or with baked seafood ($4.95), which includes scallops, squid and shrimp.

There is, of course, plenty of more traditional Cantonese cooking. Most seafood dishes are priced between $6 to $9; beef and chicken dishes are all around $6. Preparations range from sweet and sour to satay to curry, which brings us back to the offbeat nature of the menu. There is a whole slew of entrees from Hong Kong and Singapore, which tend toward the spicy like laksa, served in a large soup bowl with noodles and chicken, pork, beef, or shrimp ($3.95 each). The spices are tangy but not the kind that will set your mouth on fire.

By the way, you get your choice of noodle in many of these soups: pick from egg noodles, fat rice noodles, or rice vermicelli. This is definitely the kind of place where you will want to experiment with repeat visits and at these prices, you can afford to do so. Open every day, from 8 A.M. to midnight.

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