Travel Their heads were shaved bald, though on some the hair Nanjing was growing back in a light crew-cut. Their morning starts with a formal meditation Nanjing period. An insistent drumbeat could be heard, growing faster and more rhythmical.

In the centre of the temples stands the Grand Hall of the Golden Roof, whose gold-plated bronze roof is supported by marble walls. I didn’t try to find a way into the Hall, being content to listen and watch the rays of sun stealing over the lamasery’s red-tiled roofs. Mist was rising slowly from the valley below, the drumbeat continued, and I could smell fresh bread being baked somewhere nearby.

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