Traveling in Paraguay


Confiteria Alemana I No day in San Bernardino is complete without a sugar dusted German style jelly donut, otherwise known as a bollo. These are so popular that the Confiteria Alemana prepares more than 4,000 per day during the summer time. Bollos filled with dulce de guayaba are especially delicious. The bakery specializes in other pastries as well. Meanwhile the restaurant upstairs prepares basic meat and pasta dishes. Tel: 0512 232 901, Corner of Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion and Colonos Alemanes (there is another branch called Confiteria Alemana II at the entrance to San Bernardino), Bakery hours: Daily 7:30am-9:30pm, Restaurant hours: Thurs-Sun 9:30am-9:30pm, Gs. 7,000-30,000

La Casita del Helado This ice cream shop is another San Ber classic known for their fruti-cream drinks – part frozen strawberry juice part ice cream served up with both a straw and a spoon. Their increasing popularity has lead to additional flavors including chocolate, peach and berry. It’s perfect for a hot summer’s day and worth the inevitable brain freeze. Corner of 14 de Mayo and Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion next to the main plaza (as well as another branch in front of Hotel Los Alpes), daily 11am-6pm, Gs 7,000-15,000

El Rincon de la Vaca Far from the chaos of the city, this restaurant and dairy farm make for a relaxing stop to or from San Bernardino. House specialties include farm fresh dairy products (cheese and yogurt), tasty waffles, and a hearty bife al caballo (steak with eggs and onions). It’s definitely a good choice for breakfast. After you’re done eating, sink into a hammock or saddle up for a scenic horseback ride through the twenty-six hectare farm You may have to wait for someone to prepare the horses unless you make advanced reservations. Tel: 0512 232 982, km 43.5 Ruta General Morinigo, Dec-Feb Tues-Thurs 9am-11pm, Fri-Sun 9am-1am, Mar-Nov Fri-Sun 9am-9pm, Gs. 6,000-30,000

Cafe Frances This intimate cafe bills itself as a piece of France in San Ber and, indeed, the menu is packed with a variety of European dishes including cheese, meat, and chocolate fondues, raclette (melted cheese with finger potatoes and other salty goodies) and pierrade (hot stone for cooking small cuts of meat), as well as tarts and other desserts. This is definitely a rare find in Paraguay and a good break from empanadas! Tel: 0512 232 982, Luis F. Vache almost at Colonos Alemanes (next to Danny’s Pizzeria),, Daily 10am-10pm closed Tuesdays, Gs 20,000-45,000

Danny’s Pizzeria The area’s best pizza second only to Punto Prima in Altos. New York style pizzas are large with thin crusts. Outdoor seating along the main drag is noisy but good for people watching during the high season. Tel: 0512 232 446, Corner of Luis F. Vache and Colonos Alemanes, Daily 5:30-12pm, closed Wednesdays, Gs. 30,000-50,0000

Getting There

Take either Route 2 through San Lorenzo or the Luque-Ypacaraf road to Ypacarai (the latter is preferable). After the Ypacarai toll booth the road will fork – keep straight (the right-hand turn leads down Route 2 to Caacupe). Caution should be taken when driving to San Bernardino on weekend nights during the summer as drinking is a heavy part of the nightlife scene.

The Altos and Loma Grandense buses both head to San Bernardino from Asuncion. Loma

Grandense buses are nice and frequent and be caught along Avenida Mariscal Estigarribia/Eusebio Ayala (popular stops are across the street from Shopping Multi Plaza in Fernando de la Mora and in front of the Salema Super Centro in San Lorenzo) while the Altos bus can be caught at the Asuncion bus terminal. The cost is roughly Gs. 3,500 and it takes about an hour and a half to get there.

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