Seville Guide for Tourist

NIGHTLIFE

Seville’s reputation for gaiety is tried and true most clubs don’t get going until well after midnight, and the real fun often starts after 3am. Popular bars can be found around Calle Mateos Gago near the cathedral, Calle Adriano by the bullring, and Calle Betis across the river in Triana.

La Carboneria, C. Levies 18, off C. Santa Maria La Blanca. Popular bar with free live flamenco and a massive outdoor patio replete with banana trees, picnic tables, and gui-tar-strumming Romeos. Tapas ‚1.50-2. Beer ‚1.50. Mixed drinks ‚4.50. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 8pm-4am, Su 8pm-2:30am; Sept.-May M-Sa 8pm-4am, Su 7pm-3am.

El Capote, next to Pte. Isabel II, at C. Arjona and C. Reyes Catolicos. Popular summertime bar, full of tables overlooking the river. Young sevillanos and tourists mingle amidst upbeat live music or recorded American and Latin pop. Beer ‚1.50 during the day, ‚2 at night. Mixed drinks ‚5. Open June-Sept. 15 daily noon-4am.

Flaherty’s, C. Alemanes 7, across from the cathedral. Friendly, sprawling Irish pub popular among tourists, ex-pats, and foreign and local students. 4 beers on tap, including Guinness. Serves international food daily until 11:30pm. Entrees and sandwiches ‚5-10. Beer ‚2. Mixed drinks ‚4.60. Open daily llam-3am.

Tribal, next to Pte. de la Barqueta. Popular discoteca, playing American hip-hop and Latin favorites. Outdoor patio overlooking the river. W hip-hop nights are the most popular with backpacker crowd. Beer ‚3.50. Mixed drinks ‚5.50. No cover before lam. After lam cover ‚6-10, includes 1 drink. Open W-Sa 10pm-6am.

Palenque, Av. Bias Pascal, on the grounds of Cartuja ’93. Gigantic dance club, complete with 2 dance floors and a small ice skating rink (‚3, including skate rental). F-Sa dress to impress. Mainly sevillano university crowd. Beer ‚3. Mixed drinks ‚5. Cover ‚7 F-Sa. Open June-Sept. Th-Sa midnight-7am.

Fundicion, C. Betis 49-50, at the end of the hallway. Popular bar among American exchange students. American music and decor fill the huge interior. Beer ‚2.50. Mixed drinks ‚5. Open M-Sa 10pm-5am. Closed July 15-Aug. 30.

Isbiliyya, Po. de Colon 2, across from Pte. Isabel II. Popular riverfront gay, straight, and lesbian bar with outdoor seating and an ample dance floor. Beer ‚2-2.50. Open daily 8pm-6am.

Terraza Chile, Po. de las Delicias. Loud salsa and pop keep this small, breezy dance club packed and pounding throughout the early morning hours. Young sevillano professionals mingle with Euro-chic American exchange students. Beer ‚1.50. Mixed drinks ‚5. Open June-Sept. daily 8am-5am; Oct.-May Th-Sa 8pm-5am.

Coliseum, across from Tribal. A chill cross between a summer terraza and a disco. Upscale 20-somethings sip drinks at tables overlooking the river or crowd the small dance floor. Beer ‚3. Mixed drinks ‚5.50. Cover ‚7, includes 1 drink; look for free admission coupons from promoters in town. Open May-Sept. Su and W-Sa lOpm-late.

Catedrai, Cuesta del Rosario 12. Underground disco with a metal, stone, and wood decor. No cover for women and those with coupons. Cover for men ‚6, includes 1 mixed drink or 2 beers. Open Sept.-June W-Sa midnight-6am.

DAYTRIPS FROM SEVILLE

Founded by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC, Cadiz (pop. 155,000) is thought to be the oldest inhabited city in Europe. Carnaval is perhaps Spain’s most dazzling party (Feb. 19-29 in 2004), but year-round the city offers golden sand beaches that put its pebble-strewn eastern neighbors to shame. Playa de la Caleta is the most convenient, but better sand awaits in the new city; take bus #1 from PI. Espana to PI. Glorieta Ingeniero (‚0.80), or walk along the paseo by the water (20-30min. from behind the Cathedral) to reach ESPIaya de la Victoria, which has earned the EU’s bandera azul for cleanliness. Back in town, the gold-domed, 18th-century cathedral is considered the last great cathedral built by colonial riches. To get there from PI. San Juan de Dios, follow C. Pelota. (Cathedral and museum open Tu-F 10am-l:30pm and 4:30-7:30pm, Sa 10am-l:30pm. ‚3.) From the train station, walk two blocks past the fountain with the port on your right, and look left for Plaza San Juan de Dios, the town center.

Transportes Generates Comes buses ( 956 22 78 11) arrive at PI. Hispanidad from Seville (2hr. 11-14 per day, ‚9.40). From the bus station, walk 5min. down Av. Puerto with the port on your left; PI. de San Juan de Dios will be after the park on your right. The tourist office is at #11 PI. de San Juan de Dios. ( 956 24 10 01. Office open M-F 9am-2pm and 5-8pm. Kiosk in front of office open June-Sept. Sa-Su and holidays lOam-lpm and 5-7:30pm; Oct.-May 10am-l:30pm and 4-6pm.) Most hostales huddle in and around PI. de San Juan de Dios and around the harbor. Hostal Marques , C. Marques de Cadiz 1, off PI. de San Juan de Dios, offers clean and spacious rooms with balconies that surround an enclosed inner courtyard. (956 28 58 54. Singles ‚18; doubles ‚25, with bath ‚35; triples ‚35.)

ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA. With castles and Roman ruins at every turn, Arcos (pop. 33,000) is a historic and romantic gem. Wander the winding alleys of ruins and hanging flowers in the old quarter, and marvel at the stunning view from Gi Plaza Cabildo. In the square is the Basilica de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, a mix of Baroque, Renaissance, and Gothic styles. To reach the old quarter from the bus station, exit left, follow the road and turn left, and continue 20min. uphill on C. Munoz Vasquez as it changes names. Buses ( 956 70 49 77) run from C. Corregidores to Cadiz (l2hr. 6 per day, ‚4.60) and Seville (2hr. 7am and 5pm, ‚6.20). The tourist office is on PI. Cabildo. (956 70 22 64. Open Mar. 15-Oct. 15 M-Sa 10am-2pm and 4-8pm; Oct. 16-Mar. 14 M-Sa 10am-2pm and 3:30-7:30pm.) Pension Callejon de las Monjas , C. Dean Espinosa 4, shaded by the Iglesia de Sta. Maria, offers a restaurant, barbershop, and hostel with spotless rooms and AC. ( 956 70 23 02. Singles ‚18, with bath ‚22; doubles ‚2733, with large terrace ‚39; quads ‚66.) Cheap cafes and tapas bars huddle along the bottom end of C. Corredera between the bus station and the old quarter.

RONDA. Picturesque Ronda (pop. 38,000) has all the charm of a small, medieval town with the amenities and cultural opportunities of a thriving city. Ancient bridges, picturesque views, and old dungeons not to mention the famed bullring attract many visitors to Ronda, the birthplace of modem bullfighting. A precipitous 100m gorge, carved by the Rio Guadalevm, dips below the Puente Nuevo, opposite PI. Espana. The views from the Puente Nuevo, and its neighboring Puente Viejo and Puente San Miguel, are unparalleled. Bullfighting aficionados charge over to Ronda’s Plaza de Toros, Spain’s oldest bullring (est. 1785) and cradle of the modem corrida. Descend the steep stairs of the Casa Del Rey Moro into the 14th-century water mine for an otherworldly view of the river ravine.

Trains (s’902 24 02 02) depart from Av. Alferez Provisional for: Algeciras (2hr. 4 per day, ‚5.80); Granada (3hr. 3 per day, ‚11); Madrid (4V4hr. 2 per day, ‚49); and Malaga (2hr. 7:50am, ‚7.55). Buses ( 952 18 70 61) go from PI. Concepcion Garcia Redondo 2, near Av. Andalucia, to: Cadiz (3hr. 3 per day, ‚11.50); Malaga (2V hr. 9 per day, ‚7.60); Marbella (liihr. 5 per day, ‚4.30); and Seville (2Vhr. 3-5 per day, ‚9). The tourist office is at Pi. Espana 1. (952 87 12 72. Open Sept.-May M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-2pm.; June-Aug. M-F 9am-8pm, Sa-Su 10am-2pm.) Pension La Purisima , C. Seville 10, offers bright rooms. ( 952 87 10 50. Singles ‚15; doubles ‚28-30, with bath ‚30-33; triples with bath ‚45.) Postal Code: 29400.

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